Simplicity. When I was a younger cook I sought out the most complicated, convoluted, and difficult recipes to explore. A recipe with dozens of steps was a challenge eagerly sought. An opportunity to expand my skills and knowledge. An opportunity to, let's face it, conquer a recipe. I reveled in my successes while my failures were only goads to keep trying. No, it's not in the same class as climbing Mount Everest, but the mind-set was the same.
I learned to make croissants almost worthy of a French bakery. Souffles of any sort (an early challenge) were something I could create while sleeping. Sauces of all sorts became mere gravy. And then, my interest began to lag.
It lagged still further when I started cooking and writing about cooking for a living. I knew I would face burn-out and sure enough, I've been dealing with a certain kitchen lethargy for the past year. In the effort to regularly produce new dishes for my literary efforts and endlessly repeat favorites for my personal chef clients the whole cooking thing lost its real focus and I found myself ordering out for pizza, or making a quick run to the nearest BBQ joint when I needed to feed myself.
But a few of weeks ago, after a week in the hospital consuming hospital food and combating an infection that one doctor reacted to with, "Holey Molely!" I came home to recuperate and spent three days eating TV dinners (that my parents were kind enough to buy me) while I gained strength to do a grocery run. Still on the weak side, I went with easy dishes: baked penne with tuna, broiled trout, even chicken soup.
A couple of days ago I thawed out a lamb leg steak. I brushed it with olive oil and seasoned it with salt and pepper. Then I grilled it in a grill pan on the stove. In the meantime I made some gremolata.
Gremolata is a simple combination of parsley, garlic, lemon zest, olive oil, and salt and pepper traditionally served on Osso Bucco. It's particularly good on lamb, but also complements steak and chicken. Careful, though, the next morning you'll still be tasting it.
Gremolata
Makes enough for 2 servings.Zest of 1 lg. lemon
2 cloves garlic - crushed
3 tbsp minced parsley
1 tsp olive oil
Salt and pepperCombine all ingredients in a small bowl and allow flavors to meld for about an hour.
In an alternate life, the Paisano is Kevin Weeks: a Gather food correspondent, personal chef, cooking teacher, and writer in Knoxville, Tennessee who spends too many hours on his feet, cooking. "Paisano" the column focuses on peasant dishes from around the world, Paisano the character is fictional. To read more of Kevin's writings or connect to him click here.His blog,Seriously Good, is read by 100,000 cooks a month and in addition he writes a weekly column for Spot-Onand is the Guide for Cooking for Two at About.com.


Comments: 24
I love gremolata and love lamb, but had never put them together.....Sounds wonderful!
I'm really happy to hear that you're recovering from your illness and I look forward to more of your works soon.
I agree (although in my case from strictly the amateur side of the table) that simplicity is sometimes the best thing.... four ingredients put together well are better than fifteen assembled without love for the work.
That's far too long to go without lamb.
Don,
My pleasure.
Sonia,
The infection scared the hell out of the doctors and the antibiotics totally floored me, but by the time I ate that last TV dinner I was to raring hit the grocery store - and I've recovered completely.
Ms Meacham,
Yeah, it's in many ways the epitome of what I enjoy cooking most these days. Simple, easy, and packed with flavor.
Thomas,
My earlier efforts taught me a great deal about the science and art of cooking, and sometimes it surprises me when that knowledge informs even simple dishes. I taught a class tonight on English Pub Grub, and as usual I was asked questions I didn't know the answer to until I was asked. Or, rather, I did things such as ordering ingredients and adjusting heat that I didn't even think about until someone asked me, "Why?"
Jonathon,
I would say the results are often as good but different in kind from something like a Creme Brulee or a Beef Wellington or a souffle.
Leah,
It is.
Zest of 1 lg. lemon
I've changed the recipe.
Lamb is great stuff. It doesn't taste like beef or pork, but it does taste like meat and the flavor is distinctive and mild. If it were cheaper I'd eat more lamb than beef.
Quite the contrary, some TV dinners are better than hospital food.
I lived in Scotland for a year when I was a child and grew to love mutton and lamb and batter-fried fish. Still don't see much mutton or lamb on the menus or in the grocery store but in the last ten years, battered fish has become a lot more popular. Here in the South we fry EVERYTHING (chicken, fish, shrimp, green tomatoes, mushrooms, cheese, dill pickles) but there's nothing like mutton stew on a cold day...or grilled lamb chops with lightly steamed asparagus on the side.
This weekend, I may have to take a trip to the really expensive grocery store on the other side of town where you can usually get lamb.
I'm so glad you're feeling better and up to spreading inspiration....