As the train jolts along, I'm fascinated with the scenery on both sides of the tracks. My friend Diane and I, along with our tour group, are ascending Rio de Janeiro's Corcovado Mountain via the electric cog railway that runs through Tijuca National Park. I'm also frustrated because I would like to photograph the interesting rainforest plants, informational signs, and clever statuettes we are passing, but the train is moving and the window frame is always in the way.
Only a short distance away from Rio's beaches, Tijuca National Park covers 46 square miles and is said to be the world's largest urban forest. Most of the forest on the mountain has been replanted. Reforestation began in the middle of the 19th century after the land had been stripped of trees to create sugar cane and coffee plantations, which resulted in severe erosion and diminished rainfall and drinking water supplies. One hundred and fifty years later, we still wrestle with learning that human survival, human sustainability, depends on the integrity of the ecosystems that support life, that support us.
Reaching the top of the mountain, we join the crowd there to experience the Christ the Redeemer statue up close. During the last few days, we've seen the huge statue from afar wherever we've traveled in Rio.
Standing 130 feet high and weighing 700 tons, the Christ the Redeemer statue has been named one of the Seven New Wonders of the World. While the traditional crucifix pose shows a dying, suffering Jesus with arms outstretched nailed to a cross, Christ the Redeemer portrays an alive, compassionate Christ with arms reaching out to welcome all.
With its 360-degree views of the beautiful Rio landscape, the site is a photographer's dream.
Sugar Loaf Mountain, which we visited two days ago, is prominent in the seascape vista to the southeast of Corcovado Mountain.
To the east, the scenic view includes a long bridge.
The Rio-Niteroi Bridge as seen from Corcovado Mountain spans Guanabara Bay and connects Rio with Niteroi. The bridge is about nine miles long.
To the south an upscale urban area has been built around a lagoon. We also get a view of the Atlantic Ocean with Rio's famous beaches.
Elegant residences border Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon and suggest a posh lifestyle. The lagoon, however, is highly polluted as evidenced by the lack of boats on the water. Ipanema lies across the lagoon on the far side of the photo. The Atlantic Ocean is behind it.
Boarding the train car to go down, Diane and I sit on the left hand side in the first seats of the car facing the direction we will be going. Nine, uniformed young men wearing nametags follow us in and sit down as a group in the seats on the other side of the aisle that face backwards. I wonder who they are.
Catching the attention of a man near me, I ask, "What group are you with?" All of them look my way as he replies, "The Nigerian Navy." It seems these Nigerian sailors are in Brazil for a special event. As a group and as individuals, they are so smart-looking and disciplined that I ask if I can photograph them. They all respond with a yes or a nod. To my knowledge, these men are the first Nigerians I have ever met.
Nigerian sailors ready to ride the cog railway down Corcovado Mountain.
Also coming on board and standing in a bit of open space in front of Diane and me are several musicians wearing shirts that say Grupo Bom de Samba. As the train starts moving, the group begins playing its samba sounds. Without thinking and still seated, I move my body to the wonderful samba rhythms. The leader of the samba band motions for me to stand. I don't know anything about dance steps, but the rhythms have caught me. I stand up and unselfconsciously swivel my head and hips and arms to the music. A tour mate in back of me takes a photo of me with my camera. I'm probably making a fool of myself, but the music is too seductive to ignore.
At the encouragement of the leader of the of the Grupo Bom de Samba, I dance to the group's music in front of a train-car full of passengers while the train descends Corcovado Mountain.
One of the Nigerian sailors pushes past the band's leader and indicates he wants to dance with me. He's slight of build and has such a sweet face with bright eyes and a shy smile that I immediately love him. Smiling the whole time, he and I dance until we reach the end of the ride. I shake his hand, tell him my name, and ask him his name. "Alabi," he replies, still smiling. I look at his nametag to get the spelling.
Later on the coach, Diane mentions something about feeling "it" in my back, and I'm brought to my senses. I uneasily remember my doctor's vehement, "Absolutely not! You've got severe spinal stenosis, not just spinal stenosis," as she answered my question, "Can I ride roller coasters?" Perhaps I shouldn't have done all that gyrating. But in light of the fun I've had, the doubt doesn't stay with me.
When I get home and look at my photo of the Nigerian navy men, I'm disappointed to discover that Alabi's face is not visible. Remembering Alabi, I get philosophical. What was the likelihood when I was a baby that I would dance with a young black Nigerian sailor in the rainforest on Corcovado Mountain in Brazil on a September day 70 years from then? I marvel at my good fortune to have had such a one-of-a-kind, improbable experience. And I think that despite the problems humans today face in developing global civil society, my experience testifies that happy improbabilities, never even dreamed of, can and do become reality.
The previous article in this travel series, Rio's Botanical Garden--orchids, lipstick and more was published October 12, 2007.
NEXT in this South American travel series: Igaussu, Iguacu, Iguazu--waterfalls and more waterfalls
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Comments: 18
i'll feature this, in travel photos!
A wonderful travel tale, Verie. You are da best!
Bert, Dave Berry is also my favorite humorist. He has a way of showing us how flimsy and silly some of our cultural habits and icons are.
Ruppert, as a person who has only had a taste of Brazil and doesn't know the big picture, I don't think I have a right to be critical of Brazil, but what you say fits my impressions. Like you, I don't especially like the Christ the Redeemer statue. I've been to five of the seven new wonders of the world, and don't think it matches any of those five for design, architecture, art and history. While there, I silently questioned why it was chosen. Some thoughts I had about why it was chosen:
-It took a lot of effort to get the materials up the mountain
-The statue is visible from far away, making it a potent symbol.
-The welcoming arms portray meaning to many people.
-The New Seven Wonders of the World was not based on criteria or made by experts. It was done by polling a lot of people via phone and Internet.
Your comments have expanded my essay. Thank you.
The weather was outstanding while we were there, but not as good in Iguassu Falls where it was cloudy and in Buenos Aires, where it was cool, cloudy, and rainy.
Thank you, Ruppert, for giving your perspective to my Rio articles. Coming from a Carioca, they add insight and knowledge to the articles. I feel fortunate that you stopped by.