'You put your life within three or four fingers' width of death, the thickness of the ship's wood hull.'
- Diego Garcia de Palacios,
INSTRUCCION NAUTICA PARA NAVEGAR
Diego Garcia - Below the waves...
In August of 2004 I was part of a small team (three) that surveyed the reef habitats of Diego Garcia, Chagos in the Indian Ocean.
[ Visit also: Footprint of a People: a Graphic Tour of Diego Garcia]
US Naval Base, Diego Garcia, Chagos (BIOT = British Indian Ocean Territory)
The Chagos Conservation Trust, PEW Charitable Trusts organization, and other conservation groups presented a proposal that would develop a conservation zone around the incredible islands of the Chagos Archipelago similar to the 'marine monuments' announced for the Pacific Ocean in 2008.
The plans, however, exclude the Chagossians from a seat at their own table.
This is from an Associated Press report (AP; Dina Cappiello): "[In the Pacific Ocean,] Northern Mariana Islands government officials and indigenous communities initially objected to the monument designation, citing concerns about sovereignty, fishing and mineral exploration."
The Chagossians, however, already having been removed from their homes in the early 1970's, are currently in the middle of their legal process to regain their rights. They have indeed gained the legal recognition of the British Government and Courts for their rights to their homes and for the acknowledgment of the moral wrongs done to them in the past. They won these rights in the British Courts, despite repeated appeals by elements of the Government.
They won those rights, that is, until they were recently blocked by a final appeal (placed on behalf of the US State Department & Pentagon) to ultimately deny them those very rights.
The Chagossians are now appealing to the Courts of the European Union.
What is interesting in regards to the common features of these marine protected areas in both the Pacific and the Indian Oceans is that they all involve US Naval Bases and Naval Operating/Maneuvering Areas.
Places the Navy would be interested in having 'buffer zones' against silent running submarines.
It is interesting that the announcement of the conservation zones in the Pacific coincides with legal tussling over the Navy's use of their harmful high powered low frequency sonar.
If the Navy agreed to limit the sonar use in biologically diverse areas, then they might "request" that those areas be as "mechanically silent" as possible to assist with their mission.
Creating conservation zones is a solution that "might" be developed... It is what is called "quid pro quo" or in environmental terms "mitigation."
If nothing else is true about this sad affair, then this certainly is: Neither Bush nor his administration had an environmental bone in their bodies (if they had any bones at all). The fox does not go into the chicken house to enjoy the scenery! When he tells you that's why he's there you KNOW he's choking your chickens and giving you a rotten egg (and sneering the whole time)! (At least, that is what my "intuition" is telling me.)
Conservation Zones are fine and good (vital in fact).But if the Pacific Islanders have realized their benefits from them, the
Chagossians have received none from the US and the UK other than to be swept under the rug once already.The irony is that the Chagossians are in favor of conserving and preserving the unique biological resources of the Chagos.
It is a matter of respect and inclusion. Something I know from experience, the Navy does not do well with.
Lagoon waters (shallow south end) and tropical greenery
Rollers and breakers over shallow algal/reef platform at Simpson Point

Shallow coral community... Clownfish (Anemonefish), Parrotfish, and others

Table and boulder corals and doctor/surgeon fish

Mountainous coral formation [photo by dive team member]

Curl-Q "cracklin' coral formations with squirrel and damselfish . These are free growing corals (not attached), able to move or roll with surges. [photo by dive team member]

Balanced boulder coral formation, shallow lagoon habitat. [photo by dive team member]

Butterflyfish over algae and coral. [photo by dive team member]

Moorish idols over coral and algae. [photo by dive team member]

Clownfish (Anemonefish) over giant anemone. [photo by dive team member]

Tawny nurse shark resting under an arch.

Circling Trevally(Jacks).

Regal angelfish.

Schooling swirling Cardinalfish in crevice.

Powderblue surgeonfish over corals and algae.

Blue-green chromis over Acropora coral fingers

Fusiliers pass by.

Large groupers parade (this Squaretail grouper is over three feet in length).

Napoleon wrasse passes in the shadows (this fellow is about four to five feet in length).

Napoleon wrasse float by in the haze over chocolat-dip damsels. The Napoleon wrasse are a listed and protected species due to their overfishing for the 'live fish' trade.

Oreintal sweetlips with Cleaner wrasse on its nose.

Butterflyfish over reef.

Convict surgeon fish descend on reef to feed.

Manta ray flys by. [photo by dive team member]

Manta ray soars by (with shark sucker). [photo by dive team member]

Large groupers patrol the atoll slope amid bright Anthiase.

Sea star on coral and algae.

Giant clam, colorfully encrusted. [photo by dive team member]

Nudibranch zipps by on bottom sediments.

Reef squid darts through sun's rays.

Green seaturtle pauses while munching on sponges.

Green seatrutle rests under rocky shelter on atoll slope.

Butterflyfish over corals.

Parrotfish over algae encrusted coral rubble.

Oriental sweetlips swims off to mingle among a diverse school over reef habitat on atoll slope.

Yours truly, recording data for reef fish survey.

'Flying'
The problem with the plans is not the establishment of a conservation zone or conservation ethics at the Chagos Archipelago. It is the exclusion and lack of respect for the Chagossians. It is the denial of self-determination over their own homeland.
Creating an exclusionary conservation zone the way the Chagos Conservation Trust proposes out of the jewel that the Chagos truly is, is like claiming the "blood diamonds" of Africa as our own and keeping them 'conscience free' because we have paid for them and have them in our own hands.
Do the masterpieces of Europe belong in museums because the Germans stole them in WWII or do they belong to the families who once owned them?
But more realistically and to the point, the "conservation zone" has more to do with the US Navy wanting 'quite zones' for listening posts in ever more 'dangerous' waters.
The exclusionary conservation zone happens to be a "good fit" with the current military mission in the Indian Ocean.
... at least... that is what my "educated intuition" is ... "telling me" ...
David Evans
Marine Biologist - coral reef ecology
Co-author "Marine Biological Survey at Diego Garcia, British Indian Ocean Territory"
PS: The Chagos are NOT "Pristine" ... they are "Pristine-Like" ... They are inhabited islands returned to nature for nearly 40 years. They still bear the footprints of the Chagossians, who are alive but miss their homes and want to return.
PPS: It is amazing that inhabited islands (for at least 300 years) should be able to present a near-pristine environment after a respite of 40 years. It seems the Chagossians didn't trash the place when they lived there the first time!
But the Chagos Conservation Trust wants to tell you now that if they return, it will all go up in smoke!!! (I am terribly saddened by that attitude ... it sickens me).
PPPS: The sea cow is now extinct from the Chagos... only, it wasn't the Chagossians that did it. It was the Europeans... Ironic, isn't it?"
Footprint of Freedom - Footprint of a People: Diego Garcia, Chagos
See also: What is Chagos...??
and
Excerpt - Bending Light: Impressions from Diego Garcia, Chagos in the Indian Ocean





Comments: 28
This will be featured in My Group.
Nan, it was quite an experience...
Nana 2-7, Thank you again for featuring my photo log. I appreciate that...
Barbara, it is a singularly unique experience. Diving is not generally allowed for those stationed there, as it is in GTMO (there are no on-site decompression chambers other than the submarines themselves). I do think that swimming and snorkeling is allowed in some areas (there are designated conservation zones and snorkelers are supposed to be 'educated' as to what not to touch).
David, Thank you as well... The habitat and its vibrant community makes it easy... :)
DG is an excellent example of a healthy system, but even it has its stresses (aside from global warming), and it can go south like so many other reef systems around the world without the proper attention and awareness. The Navy, as you know, is not set up as an 'environmental organization' as it were, but it is uniquely situated to have large amounts of land under its total control (rightly or wrongly) and to be directly regulated by the government to follow applicable regulations and environmental mandates (self enforcement is a separate matter). It also has a top to bottom command structure (which can be as messed up as any organization's though). (It also does not rely directly on local natural resources to sustain itself at a location). To give an example: we met with the British Representative (essentially the local British territorial governor) after our work was done to discuss some of our findings in a wrap up meeting. It was mentioned that the Napoleon wrasse (seen above in a few photos) was a 'listed species' and was recently in the news due to its over fishing for the live-fish market trade around the world (in the Indian and Pacific Oceans). On the spot, he "decreed" that the fish would be a 'Protected' species in Chagos & at Diego Garcia. I suppose that is just an example of the structure and situation that exists there now. I am not saying that I advocate "benevolent dictatorships" just because it can protect the environment (where the ends justify the means). (The military, as I said, does not Need to use the natural resources of a location to sustain itself and when it comes to it they will destroy any natural resources if they see fit to do so... hopefully with a thought to environmental/health repercussions. ) Civilian or military, natural resources and habitat need to be considered.
Anyhoo... that's a mindful ...
Here is a link:
"Perils of Searching for Environmental Kudos: Coral Reef Resources and Sanctuaries"
http://www.gather.com/viewArticle.jsp?articleId=281474976962278
Judi, I have not dived in the South Atlantic though I would love to. Your title sounds intriguing, I'd be interested to know more.
Also, as an added thought to my 'mindful' above... I also don't want to say that the Navy/military hasn't done much in relation to their awareness & attention to natural resources and the environment and their interaction with it, because they certainly have applied efforts in areas in that direction... matching/surpassing other sectors of society in places...
Jessie, the shallow ones were only 15 to 20 feet or so. Those were in the shallow south lagoon portion of the atoll. The whole lagoon is very enclosed with only one opening in the north. It is one of the most completely enclosed atolls in the world with continuous shoreline for about 90% of the shoreline. Those shallow shots were located in waters just a bit north of that seen in the view of the second photograph (off the left edge of that picture).
No, there's no civilian 'get-away' place nearby, but the Brits do their best at the Brit Club...There is sailing, snorkeling, and para-surfing (though no recreational/off-duty diving)... There are the buildings and ruins of the former/displaced inhabitants...
The waters are very much a treasure...
There's a company that makes underwater paper (we used 'Rite-in-the-Rain')... It's really more like a plasticized white sheet in the shape of a standard sheet of paper. Laser printers will print blank data templates to them (inkjet printers just rub off the plastic)... and a simple golf pencil to write with (tied to the clip board), though with a heavy lead like a number two...
Steve, it actually is work and in fact quite a lot of it and intense at times and also quite important stuff... but yes :) ... I gave thanks on every dive that such places, life, and things exist on this earth and thanks that I had a chance to see it and apply my work there in it...
Steve, thanks for your comments and ratings within each picture of the Photo Log...
I'll try to respond to them as well...
How special...
The individual did not feel the need or muster the fortitude to indicate what displeased them...They seem to have done the same to my other 'Photo Log' series...
hmmmmmmm.... hmmmmmmm....
I can only assume someone is upset about something or other.... ;)
How in the world are you able to take notes down there?!
Re: note taking underwater - it really is just pencil and paper :) (plastic paper). The pencils tend to want to float away and the paper and clip boards to drift off, but everything is clipped and tied down... hopefully ;)... With the Buoyancy Compensator (BC) vest filled with just enough air for my weight I stay neutral over the reef and 'float' while write and look around for fish... One fish, two fish... red fish ... yeah yeah yeah...