Gather Round the Table: Meritage

The thing to get out of the way right off the bat is that Meritage is not a French word.  In fact it’s not precisely an English word either.  It’s a made-up marketing word, and its correct pronunciation rhymes with “heritage” (as opposed to sounding like the actual French wine term Hermitage or air-mi-TAHJ).  In fact, it was developed as a sort of contraction of the words “merit” and “heritage.” Having gotten that little pet peeve off my chest, I can go on to the more pleasant things about what can be a stunning wine.

While Meritage is an American invention, it has its roots in the historic and ancient vineyards of Bordeaux.  The idea was to have a marketable name for wines that used the grapes and methods of that storied region, without falsely claiming to be making “Bordeaux” in California – a sin many lesser American winemakers commit every time they make something called “Chablis” or “Hearty Burgundy.”  That might be legal but it is no more ethical or accurate than selling a Toyota Tercel with a Cadillac emblem on the hood.  Thus with Meritage a winemaker who chose to could pay homage to the great first growths without claiming to be the same thing.

In the 21 years since the promotional group known as the Meritage Association was founded, membership has spread from California to include members in 21 more states and six more countries – including, as of last year, France!  We even have a member right up the road: Wallace Winery of West Branch is a member in good standing.

Still a large majority of Meritage comes from California.  To be allowed to carry that name on your wine label, you must not only be a member of the Association, but must also meet specific criteria for what grapes are used and how they are blended.  A red Meritage must be a blend of at least two of the following seven grapes:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmeñere, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and St. Macaire (aka Gros Verdot).  While a couple of those grapes are no longer widely used in Bordeaux, they do have a heritage there and thus qualify.  In addition, there can be no more than 90 percent of any one grape.  This is to emphasize the art of the blend.

For white Meritage it’s a little simpler.  The grapes are Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, as well as the far less common Sauvignon Vert.  Again the 90 percent rule applies.

The association was founded by vintners Julie Garvey of Flora Springs, Mitch Cosentino of Cosentino, and the legendary Agustin Huneeus, then of Franciscan and Estancia, but since then of Quintessa.  There goal was to emphasize the blending arts in light of legal requirements that mandated any varietal under 75 percent one particular grape had to be called the less-than-inspiring “Red Table Wine.”

Normally I am not one to applaud marketing gimmicks as they are usually a way to make inferior products seem less so, but not so here.  While they can command exorbitant prices, many are only in the $15-25/btl range.  The whites, though fewer in number, can cost even less.  Want some of the best?  Look to St. Supéry or Estancia.  For a good bargain, try the 2006 from Lyeth at only about $15/btl; $162/cs.  It loves a good steak, and grilling season is upon us.