Gather Round the Table: Squashes

There are certain foods that I believe are unpopular with children and other finicky eaters simply because of their names.  One such is the unfortunately named squash; it seems to make people think of what should be done to bugs, or of a rather haughty racket sport.

Adding to the confusion is that some things we call squashes are actually gourds, and vice versa, and some are neither one.  Pumpkins are in fact squashes, though many people think of them as gourds (perhaps because they are often used for decoration).  Meanwhile we think of gourds as being inedible and useful only for craft projects, but in fact many are edible and are staple foods in many parts of the world.

The ones we commonly think of as squashes: summer squash and zucchini, acorn, butternut, turban and spaghetti squash are indeed all squashes, and like the pumpkin they are all New World foods.  Though popular staples in almost every cuisine now, they were essentially unknown outside the western hemisphere before the time of Columbus.

There is very little difference (other than color) between zucchini, summer squash, “crook-kneck” and what the French and English call courgette.  They are all squash that are best eaten young, before the seeds and outer skin begin to dry and harden.  Each is well suited to sautéing with herbs and garlic, or simply being eaten raw with salt, your favorite dip, or in a salad. One small linguistic technicality that I would like to clear up is the difference between zucchini and vegetable marrow.  When you are at the farmers’ market and see something that looks like a zucchini yet is large enough to be brandished as a weapon (then eaten to hide the evidence), that is vegetable marrow, or “plain” marrow, or simply marrow.  A squash, yes, but not a zucchini.

My favorite among the squashes is the butternut, because its excess starch helps it stand up to roasting our sautéing without loosing its shape, and those same starches caramelize quite nicely, yet it is brilliant for velvety smooth bisques as well. 

Peel a butternut, with a vegetable peeler or a serrated knife, then split the squash and scoop out the seeds and pulp with a spoon.  Dice the bright orange flesh into half-inch cubes (keeping your knife blade wet will help prevent the squash from sticking to it).  From here, you can toss the cubes with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast them at 400 f. for 25-30 minutes, tossing frequently, until browned and tender; sauté them in butter with a little fresh chopped tarragon; or blanch them in boiling chicken or vegetable stock and mash or puree them with a pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg for a nice autumn side dish.

My wife Kim, on the other hand, favors the unique and unusual abilities of the spaghetti squash (pictured here).  Roughly the size of a football, but with rounded ends (like a rugby ball, if you’re familiar) and pale yellow, the spaghetti squash has a flavor similar to most other squashes – nutty and rich.  Unlike its brethren though, once split and seeded then roasted or steamed, the flesh of the spaghetti squash can be removed by scraping with a fork.  The result is shreds of squash that closely resemble spaghetti (thus the name, obviously) and can even be used in place of pasta, served with your favorite marinara or mushroom sauce.  Alternately, kids love it as a side dish with a little butter and brown sugar.

Cooks in a hurry can prepare spaghetti squash in minutes simply by splitting them (please be careful and use a large, sharp knife, and a folded rag to protect your hand), then scooping out the pulp and seeds with a spoon, seasoning with salt and pepper, and placing one half - cut side down - on a plate with a little water.  Place in the microwave (yes, it’s me who said “microwave”) and cook on high for 3-4 minutes or until tender.

Now, the preferred method is roasted.  Preheat your oven to 400 f., and clean the spaghetti squash the same way as above.  Place them on a rack on a cookie sheet – cut side up this time - and place a tablespoon or two of butter in each, a little chopped red onion, and some salt and pepper.  Roast them in the middle of your oven for 30-40 minutes, or until they are tender and easily pierced with a knife or fork.

With either preparation, use a clean potholder or thick towel to hold the shell steady as you scrape out the flesh with a fork and serve immediately.  The average sized spaghetti squash will feed four as a side dish, or two as an entrée.

		Kurt Michael Friese, Gather Food Correspondent
	Gather ‘Round the Table is a regular feature of Gather Essentials: Food. Chef Kurt Michael Friese is a freelance food and wine writer & photographer. He is also the co-owner - with his wife Kim - of Devotay, a restaurant in Iowa City, serves on the Slow Food USA Board of Governors, and is Editor-in-Chief of the local food magazine Edible Iowa River Valley. He lives in rural Johnson County, Iowa. Keep up with Kurt Michael's food series by joining his network, or subscribing to his content.