The Culinary Tourist: Fiddlehead Ferns

A forgotten forest sends up tiny tendrils to herald the start of spring

You can hear a symphony in the woods this time of year as the fiddlehead ferns begin their dance on the forest floor. The black-throated green warbler is the first to arrive, followed by the robust song of the hermit thrush. Bugs and wildlife scuttle among the emerging trillium as the delicate fronds unfold, like the scrolls on the end of tiny stringed instruments.

How these fresh greens ended up on the plates of Native Americans and lumberjacks more than 150 years ago was more a case of practicality than gastronomic pleasure. You drew your sustenance from the natural world in places where you lived and worked.

Today, if you experience the delight of fiddleheads at all, it’s likely on a white tablecloth in a fine restaurant, a real shame since Mother Nature provides an abundant supply, often close to home.

Prized for their delicate flavor and captivating texture, fiddleheads--also known as ostrich ferns--are often compared with asparagus or tasty French haricot verts. They can be steamed, sautéed or boiled, or lightly tossed in a salad or pasta dish.

Visit the Westline Inn on the fringe of the Allegheny National Forest during fishing season, and you'll find them simmering in a wild rice soup, flavoring a portabella mushroom ravioli, and served atop a sizzling grilled trout, moments from a cold, fresh-water stream. Trout season begins April 12 and the season is short, so you'd better come soon, advises Westline's chef and co-owner Julia Frick. Once there, you will want to stay awhile, soaking up the history of the place.

The Westline Inn was once the home and offices of Scottish immigrant Edmund Day, founder of a chemical wood company that used the vast stands of white pine to produce charcoal and wood alcohol. With thoughtful planning, community involvement and careful stewardship, the nearby forest has made an amazing comeback and is now a 513,000-acre recreational paradise, part of the largest block of public land between New York and Chicago. You’ll find artifacts from the early lumbering days throughout the Inn.

If you decide to strike out on your own, search for fiddleheads that are deep or bright green, tightly coiled and no larger than an inch and a half in diameter and about 2 inches long. Be sure to have the property owners' permission and ask if there are any restrictions for gathering native plants if you're in a state park or forest. In Pennsylvania, you're free to gather enough for a small salad in a state parks or forests, but it's strictly prohibited in state game lands.

Fiddleheads are available, when in season, from specialty produce markets and some supermarkets. The produce manager at my local Wegman's was placing his order when I stopped by.

Here are a few serving suggestions:

Composed Salad
Arrange cooked fiddleheads with assortment of cooked vegetables on salad plates (warm or room temperature), such as asparagus, artichoke hearts, and green beans. Top with vinaigrette augmented with chopped fresh tarragon. Garnish with a little finely diced sweet or red onion.

Ferns "n" pasta
Toss warm pasta with cooked fiddlehead ferns. Add extra-virgin olive oil, a little balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and pepper; toss. Top with freshly grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese.

Mixed sauté
In large, deep skillet, cook 1 onion (chopped) in 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil on medium-high heat until softened. Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme, 8 ounces sliced cremini mushrooms, and 2 garlic cloves (minced); cook until mushrooms soften. Add 1 pound cooked (tender-crisp) fiddlehead ferns and 1 tablespoon minced parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, garnish with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Recipes and fern photos courtesy of Melissa's, a worldwide purveyor of fresh produce, including fiddleheads.

Traveling to Pennsylvania? Here's how to  find yourself in the forest this spring.

Whether you're fishing or foraging, you're welcome at the Westline Inn.
Don't miss the annual leek festival, Sunday, April 29. You'll feel like you're at an old-fashioned tureen dinner--everyone brings a favorite dish, all made with leeks. Enjoy traditional bluegrass music in a field of green.

For fresh ideas on what to cook, no matter the season, page through this big, green book from Melissa's.

Lisa Gensheimer, Travel Correspondent:

The Culinary Tourist appears every other Thursday and by chance in Gather Essentials: Travel. Explore all 50 states with award-winning documentary producer Lisa Gensheimer as she discovers the fun, food and people she meets along the way. Whether you're visiting the home of a faraway friend, stopping for directions at a roadside market, or on holiday in an exotic location, richly layered experiences await.

A published author, Lisa has several new projects in the works, including a cultural cookbook and companion travel DVD. Read more about her work at MainStreetMedia.tv and at Forest Press.