Zaragoza :: The Crossroads of Spain

 My trip to the Zaragoza Expo 2008 was in November. Most of the buildings you see under construction here are now completed.

    Zaragoza sits on the banks of Spain's longest river, the Ebro, halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, and halfway between Bilbao and Valencia. It is a true crossroads city. Zaragoza is also Spain's oldest settlement, with origins dating from 24 BC. During the subsequent centuries the

 

Romans, Muslims and Christians variously dominated the scene. In time the crossroads became a melting pot, with the inevitable mix of architectural styles - Roman, Moorish, Renaissance, Baroque and Modernist - visible throughout the city. This summer the 2008 International Expo, with a theme of "Water and Sustainable Development," will focus the World's attention on Zaragoza, Spain's fifth largest city.



    A tour of the site of Zaragoza's 2008 Expo reveals a forest of cranes pulling buildings from the earth in various stages of completion, as concrete trucks and tractor trailers delivering construction supplies clog the muddy roads. Most of the buildings, such as the water drop shaped Water Tower, are nearly complete, some more complete than others. Many incredible architectural creations are growing on the 62 acre site along the Ebro River.


 






   An international lineup of architects submitted designs for the various exhibit buildings. Two of those who received commissions are Enrique de Teresa for the emblematic Water Tower, and Zaha Hadid for the Bridge-Pavilion, a massive pavilion that will be the futuristic entry to the Expo. The sight of these and other modern designs are spectacular against a city skyline whose prominent feature historically was the Baroque towers of the Basílica del Pilar.



    The major distinction between Expo 2008 and previous Expos is that Zaragoza's buildings are specifically designed for use after the September closing. Contracts and leases are already signed for most, with all expected to be under contract by the mid-June opening. The site itself will be transformed into a cultural and scientific park to be used for popular leisure activities. This is in keeping with the theme of sustainable development that sets a standard for future Expos. It contrasts sharply with recent ones, such as the '92 Expo in Seville, where more than half of the buildings still sit empty and abandoned.



    When you're not visiting the Expo, the city of Zaragoza has architecture, Roman ruins and the narrow streets of the Old Quarter to explore. If it is art you enjoy, the Museum of Zaragoza is located in the Plaza de los Sitios. It contains an impressive collection of paintings including many by the Spanish Master Painter Goya. As a teenager Goya moved to Zaragoza from nearby Fuendetodos, where he was born. His home is preserved there as a National Monument. Just next door to his birthplace, the Engraving Museum houses four of Goya's most important print series. After a side trip there, true Goya aficionados will enjoy a visit to Chapel of La Virgin de la Fuente in nearby Muel, where five of his earliest frescoes, dating back to 1771, can be seen. For art you can buy, stop at the Muel Pottery School and Workshop to see the museum, and shop for their world famous hand-painted ceramics.

    Nearby Cariñena produces some of the best wines in Aragon, some say in all of Spain. Excellent, full-bodied tintos are produced from such grape varieties as Garnacha, Tempranillo and Cariñena. Macabeo is the main variety for blanco, or white wine. All produce excellent accompaniments to the delicious foods of the region. Roast lamb, rabbit and pork are the meats in a typical meal. The hairy (and delicious) herb borage is popular, too, appearing either as a condiment, vegetable or dessert at most sittings. The local specialty, Migas, is a dish of fried bread crumbs and odd bits of ham and cheese, fish or vegetables, topped with a fried egg. It is a nutritious and great-tasting way to clean up any leftovers. Potatoes, rice and wonderful breads are other starches to be found on the menu, followed by an incredible selection of desserts whose shape and taste are only limited by the imagination of the chefs.

    Here there is no lack of imagination! Top restaurants are taking the region's traditional dishes and giving them a modern twist, following the culinary movement happening elsewhere in Spain. Be prepared for surprising meals in unprepossessing locales, served family-style by second and third generation restaurateurs. Finally, the hospitality of the locals will remind you of Spain before it took the lead as an international tourist destination. Everybody is just "down home" nice.



    There is more than just art and wine to lure you into the countryside surrounding Zaragoza. The military history of Spain is strikingly visible a scant half hour from the city. During the Spanish Civil War the picturesque village of Belchite was destroyed. General Franco declared that Belchite be preserved in total destruction as a war monument. Today it is a national historic site.










Planning Your Trip
Zaragoza has everything: fine food, architecture and 2000 years of cultural history. Plus, it is easy to get to by plane, auto or high-speed train. Zaragoza can be a wonderful side trip or destination even without the International Expo in the Summer of 2008, but, why not have it all?

Other articles on Zaragoza:
RICHARD FRISBIE :: TIMBAL DE PATATA CONFITADA CON TRUFA FRESCA
RICHARD FRISBIE :: Tapas Judge in Zaragoza
RICHARD FRISBIE :: Migas in Zaragoza

For more information on Zaragoza and the Aragon region, visit http://www.zaragozaturismo.es

2008 International Expo:  June 14th to September 14th http://www.expozaragoza2008.es
"A sensitive, intelligent, deliberate look at one of the greatest challenges facing the human race: water as a main support for life and a strategic resource for human development, from the ethical commitment to sustainability to the intelligent goal of innovation."

Goya: http://www.goya2008.com

Stay: Hotel Silken Zentro is Zaragoza's newest boutique hotel and has a historic Modernist façade. 85-95 Euros per night. http://www.hoteles-silken.com/_presentation_2/presentation.php/36/0/0/0/1/2/

Fly: Iberia Airlines has convenient flights to Spain. http://www.iberia.com/

Eat: Restaurante Aragonia Paradis was the Winner of the Best Zaragoza Restaurant Award and can be found at the Hotel Palafox http://www.palafoxhoteles.com/