Personal Interview by Charli Mills, November 13, 2007
First published in the January 2008 issue of the Mix
Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen is like a gift from her countertop to ours. Madison, the author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, indeed makes vegetarian cooking accessible to all, whether vegetarian, vegan or omnivore. Colorful, inspirational and fresh, Madison's latest book helps us resolve what to cook for dinner. Just mere days before the greatest food feast of the year, Madison arrived in the Twin Cities to discuss with Lynn Rossetto Kasper's listeners what vegetarian dishes to include at the Thanksgiving table. Following her interview on MPR's "Splendid Table," she appeared exclusively at two Twin Cities Natural Food Co-ops for back-to-back book-signings.
Looking at home among a vibrant array of local squash at Valley Natural Foods, the Mix caught up with Madison.
MIX: What was it like interviewing with Lynn Rosetta Casper's the "Splendid Table"?
MADISON: I've been on her show lots of times and I always have the most fun with Lynne. She's lively and warm. We could talk forever.
MIX: So you have visited MN before?
MADISON: Oh, yes.
MIX: What is your take on the 'food scene' in the Twin Cities?MADISON: I think it's great. I had a wonderful dinner last night at Alma and today I stopped at Lucia's Bakery. Walking out on main street, I saw Thai, and Indian restaurants. I live in New Mexico and it's not a big melting pot of cultures, so Minneapolis is exciting. I've always eaten very well here. And I know St. Paul has an amazing farmer's market.
MIX: Why do you think our area has such a rich food heritage? MADISON: I speculated on that when working on Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Market. I didn't think there would be a very lively local food scene, or a great farmers market, but the mid-western farmers markets were among the best. I suspect that people are still closer to the farm than they are in other parts of the country.
MIX: Let's get to your new book...Why did you decide to write Vegetarian Suppers?
MADISON: Because it's the hardest question to answer: what's for supper? Most people answer with 'steak, chicken, lamb chops.' When that gets taken away, it's not easy to answer it with broccoli or potatoes. For years I wanted to write a book that answers that question. Some might be for weekend suppers; some might be for things you could cobble together--you know, fried egg sandwich and salad. Or something that's especially colorful and pretty like the Spicy Black Beans with Yellow Coconut Rice. To make it fast you can use good organic, canned beans. The point of the book was to answer that question with 100 recipes or so. There's a range of dishes here.
MIX: What was your process of putting it together?
MADISON: I've put together a lot of books. It's the 10th anniversary of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. That was a process that took seven years. I wanted it to be a teaching book. There were all kinds of associations I wanted to break apart in order to make vegetarian food more universal. In Suppers I went more by what I actually cook, and by seaosnsl, of course...I wanted dishes that gave people flexibility and weren't fussy to make, but I also wanted to introduce new ideas. It was important to give wine suggestions and tips on how to make recipes vegan if they weren't already.
MIX: Has interest in vegetarian cooking changed in the span between both books?
MADISON: I haven't been a good follower of it. There has always been an interest in vegetarian cooking. I'm interested in reaching people who want to branch out. It's not a weird thing to say, 'I want the vegetarian dish.' It's no only about vegetarians; it is about all these wonderful foods that everyone can enjoy! It's important to have a sourcebook for all plant foods because we all need to eat them.
MIX: To those who don't know much about cooking, what's the best place to start to feel confident in the kitchen?
MADISON: People need to start with something they are drawn to. not with an idea but a desire. I talked to a man on the plane yesterday and he said, 'I love salad!' So,he might start there. Whatever it is, start with what you love to eat. Some basic things to have are a sharp knife and plenty of space to work in. You have to give yourself the best opportunity to succeed. Good tools make cooking a joy and less of a chore.
MIX: Are there vegetarian staples to have on hand for everyday cooking?
MADISON: Good oils, good vinegars, herbs--dried and fresh, and again, what you like to eat. Go for a mix of flavors. I have a battery of lentils, split peas, legumes, Muir Glen tomatoes,Tofu in a box for emergencies, coconut milk, brown rice.
MIX: What's been your biggest kitchen disaster?
MADISON: Oh--my biggest disasters all have to do with cooking meat. Like a Thanksgiving dinner with 17 people around for hours while the turkey baked. I should stick with vegetables!
MIX: What do you think are some of the biggest challenges natural food consumers (eaters) face today?
MADISON: The biggest come from our government. It doesn't make it necessary to label things GMO-free, RGBH-free. Our Farm Bill doesn't support the kind of farms that benefit the people or the land.. It's not so much the stores as the whole structure that surrounds farming today. The big challenge for stores like yours is educating the customers. I want to see this sign (pointing to the co-op local label) as often as possible, and as big as possible; something that connects food to its source. Co-ops have a great opportunity to make this connection more and more.
MIX: At the end of the day, what makes you feel most satisfied?
MADISON:For me, going out to my garden to pick something to cook. On the bigger level--turning somebody on to what they can do for themselves in the kitchen.
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