Cooking Class: Braising Greens

Cooking Class
Real Cooking Made Simple
By Chef Kurt Michael Friese

Braising Hearty Greens

As I write, the wind chill factor is –18f.  My neighbor’s dried-up Christmas tree, which the trash collectors refused, is blowing up and down my street.  My dogs, Bacchus and Jazz, bark to be let outside, but just as quickly howl to be allowed back in.  The sun shines brightly, and only contrails mark the clear blue sky, but the thermometer suction-cupped to my dining room window says “3,” so I’m going to stay in and braise greens.

There is a reason why the cuisine called “Soul Food” is called that.  It’s because it warms the soul, both to prepare it and to eat it.  One of the staples of the cuisine is braised greens: collards, mustard, & turnip.  Other hearty greens are delicious braised as well, such as chard, bok choy (which is related to chard) and kale (which is technically a brassica, like cabbage and broccoli).

Each of these has distinct characteristics that must be taken into account when preparing them.  Southerners will often add a bit of brown sugar to counter the bitterness of collards.  This is also useful trick for introducing finicky children to these greens, since the nutritional value of greens is very high.  Bok choy is full of water, so this should be considered when adding the braising liquid.  Delicate greens like spinach should merely be very lightly wilted, while mustard greens should braise for quite some time or they will be leathery.

The brightly colored stems of the “rainbow” chard are temptingly curious, piled high in the produce section.  They can be just a little tricky to prepare.  You may not be sure if they should be lightly wilted like the spinach or simmered for hours, like turnip greens.  The answer is a little bit of both.

First, as with all vegetables, wash them thoroughly.  Then, remove the stems and trim off the bottom inch or so – this part of the stem is dry and tough.  Chop the rest of the stems and leaves into 2” pieces.

Meanwhile, render some bacon or pancetta in a deep, straight-sided frying pan or stockpot.  Remove the rendered meat, and then add the chard stems.  Sauté for a few minutes, until the bright colors become even brighter.  Add the leaves, and if you like, some onion or garlic.  When the leaves have wilted, add a dash of white wine and enough chicken stock to cover.  Simmer for about 10 minutes, then season with salt & pepper and serve.

All greens share an affinity for certain complimentary flavors.  The onion and bacon mentioned above, as well as cheese, butter or cream, acids like lemon juice or wine, and hot spices like red or black pepper all do well with the hearty greens.  Ginger and sesame are delicious with spinach.  Don’t be shy; the big bold flavors will shine against the savory richness, so add plenty.

These greens are also great in soups, such as Portuguese Kale Soup with the spicy Linguica sausage, or pureed into the ubiquitous Spinach Cream, or even the less common summertime favorite, Chilled Sorrel soup.  Email me if you would like those recipes.

Most commonly, braised greens are the perfect side dish to a delicious winter meal.  Try serving them with some Jasmine rice with ginger and soy and a sautéed breast of chicken.  A big, vigorous, full flavored beer like the Oatmeal Stout from Gray’s Brewing up in Janesville, Wisconsin is wonderful, smoky accompaniment.

So put on a sweater, light a cozy fire (in the fireplace, please), and enjoy a comforting winter’s meal with some braised hearty greens.