The Extension of my Hand (Part 2 of 2)

Cooking Class

Real Cooking Made Simple

By Chef Kurt Michael Friese

The Extension of my Hand (Part 2 of 2)

American Chefs use many different knives - different sizes, shapes, styles and brands.  Some feel they need an entire arsenal of blades, while others swear they can complete any task with just two or three.  Each is very particular about his or her brand, though.  While many are out there, there are really just 3 that lead the pack as favorites of the pros.  They are Henkel, Wüsthof-Trident, and Global.

Those who would say, "A knife is a knife" are the same as those who would say, "a car is a car" or "a house is a house."  Sure the car will get you there, sure the house will keep the rain off your head, and sure, the knife will cut; but how? And how well?  And will you feel comfortable in the process?

A knife is an extremely personal tool.  Those who like the German knives, the Henkels and the Wüsthofs, like them for their classic style, their balance, their long lasting edge and their weight.  These knives are fairly hefty, and for some, that's a good thing.  Conversely, the Japanese Globals are much lighter and thinner, and are made from one piece of steel from handle to tip.  This not only adds strength, but is also more sanitary since there are no little crevices to hold bacteria.  Recently, the folks at Wüsthof saw the wisdom in this, and their "Culinaire" knives are also honed from single pieces of high carbon stainless steel.

In general, which of these three you choose is a matter of taste.  Try each and decide which feels better to you.  One thing to keep in mind though is that the Henkels and Wüsthofs are guaranteed for life, and the Globals have no guarantee at all.  If anything happens to the German ones, you can send them in and get them replaced.  Something happens to your (more expensive) Globals and well, that's the way the point breaks.

A new brand I've recently discovered is called ErgoChef, and it is made from the same german Stainless as the Wusthofs, but it has a unique angled handle that is much easier on the wrist, helping to prevent repetative stress syndrome.  Visit their website and tell them I sent you (www.ErgoChef.com)

Keeping a knife sharp is, of course, vital.  All the ways to do this involve removing some metal from the edge of the blade, and each does so with friction.  Most are adequate for the job, but if you want to care for your knives and one day leave them to your grandchildren, you need a 3-sided sharpening stone made by Norton Abrasives of Worcester, MA, and available (among other places) at their company store and at JBPrince.com. 

The other essential tool is a steel.  These are the metal sticks you see chefs rubbing against their knives at the roast beef carving station during Sunday brunch.  This does not sharpen but rather hones the knife, and removes the burrs and the wire edge that can be produced from hard use.  Many types are out there, but again I recommend the Norton, and make sure you get the kind coated with industrial diamond dust.  Not nearly as expensive as that may sound, the diamond dust is the same manufactured diamond that is in the needle of the tonearm on a good turntable.  It will last forever, and all it needs for care is an occasional wash with warm soapy water.

Of course, to use these knives you need a suitable surface.  I recommend hardwood.  The folks in the health department disagree with me, I know, but I believe it is safer.  It's just that it requires more care.  Wash your board with an antibacterial soap (by hand, never in a machine) and dry it right away.  A little water won't hurt, but a lot will ruin the wood.

Those health department folks will say that bacteria can hide in those little crevices the knife makes on the board, but that's true of any board, and with wood, all you need to do is sand off the occasion one-thirty-second of an inch and you have a fresh surface.  Once a year ought to do it.  Besides, it looks and feels better, and it's easier on your expensive new knives!