Xacuti - Chicken with a Roasted Coconut Sauce

Goan cuisine is a blend of different influences the Goans had to endure during the centuries.

The staplefood in Goa is fish, both among the Hindus as well as the Catholics. On other fronts however, there is a vast difference in the foods of these two communities, the main reason being that the Christians also eat beef and pork which are taboo in most Hindu households.

While Hindu Goan food does not seem to have picked up any Portuguese influence, the Christian food has been influenced not only by the Portuguese, but also by its overseas settlments. However, it has not been a oneway transfer.

An example is canjade galinha, which is a type of chicken broth with rice and chicken pieces, and is originally a Goan recipe. Another is arroz doce, which is a Portuguese adaptation of pais or kheer (sweetened rice) found in India.

Xacuti - Chicken with a Roasted Coconut Sauce

Xacuti is a traditional Goan dish, pronounced sha-koo-tee, can also be made with rabbit, lamb or even vegetables. What distinguishes it from other dishes is that the seasonings are roasted before they are ground to a paste.

It is supposed to be so spicy that it exorcises all the sniffles and coughs in the rainy monsoon.

Ingredients:
For the Spice Paste:

8 ounces coconut, freshly grated
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
6 dried red chillies
4 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
6 cardamom pods
1/2 teaspoon cloves
1 (2in) cinnamon stick, broken
2 star anise
1 curl of mace
1/2 nutmeg
2 tablespoons white poppy seeds
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, cut into fine half rings
1 (2in) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and sliced thinly
7 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

For the Chicken

3 pounds chicken pieces cut into small serving pieces
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium onions, finely sliced into half rings
20 curry leaves (optional)

Directions:

Xacuti is a traditional Goan dish, pronounced sha-koo-tee, can also be made with rabbit, lamb or even vegetables. What distinguishes it from other dishes is that the seasonings are roasted before they are ground to a paste.

It is supposed to be so spicy that it exorcises all the sniffles and coughs in the rainy monsoon.

Make the spice paste: heat a cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the coconut and stir and roast until it is medium-brown. Add the turmeric and stir once or twice; remove the coconut and set aside. Put the chillies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, peppercorns, cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon, star anise, mace and nutmeg into the same hot pan. Stir until the spices are almost roasted, then add the poppy seeds.

Roast until the spices are lightly browned. Remove the spices from the pan and place in a clean coffee grinder, in several batches if necessary. Put one tablespoon of oil into the same pan and heat over a medium -high heat. When it is hot, add the onion ginger and garlic. Saute until medium-brown, then remove from the pan.

Combine coconut, ground spices and onion mixture in a food processor or blender. Add 350ml/12 fl oz water or more as required and blend to a paste. Do this in more than one batch if necessary.

Place the chicken pieces in a single layer on a large plate. Sprinkle on all sides with 3/4 tablespoon salt and the lemon juice. Rub this in and set aside or 20 minutes.

Heat four tablespoons of oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the sliced onions. Stir and fry until it is browned, then add the spice paste; stir and cook for 2-3 minutes. Put the chicken and all the accumulated juices into the pan with the remaining salt and 300ml/1/2 pint water; stir and bring to a simmer. Cover, turn the heat to low and cook for about 25 minutes or until the chicken is tender. Add the curry leaves (if using) and serve.

Bob Tyndall @ BlackJava