Torontonian Restaurant Reviews: Quince Restaurant

Quince is one of the Toronto must-try places - a Mediterranean-inspired bistro with reasonable prices and fresh, innovative flavors. It has been rated as extraordinary by the Eye Magazine and after getting some mixed reviews from Toronto Life, also one of the Toronto's Best New Restaurants of 2007. Formerly of the high-valued Stork on the Roof, the husband and wife team of Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel came back in fall of 2006 with this new midtown digs, only a couple blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton.

Enclosed by a pretty patio graced with teak furniture and plenty of cushions in bright, primary colors, Quince is directly across the street from the abandoned hulk that was once Cheaters, an infamous nudie bar. Two doors down, next to the famous restaurant Coquine, a neon sign proclaims “Adult Video & Novelties”, a bit of a surprise in a neighborhood touted for its thriving business district and family-friendly parks. But in the latest twenty-five years, there has always been an diverse mix of shops on this stretch of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville. You may find pretty much anything, starting from clothing boutiques to bead and paper stores, home decor to adult venues.

A hostess kindly welcomes us at Quince's door and offers us a spot near the bar on low, cushioned banquettes. Even though it's a Saturday night and we are in this busy neighborhood, we can still pick a table, pleading excessive height. “What’s downstairs?” I ask. We get a reply from our hostess: "Oh, that's our private dining room." Available for lunch and dinner and boasting its own bar and lounge, the pleasant space is elegantly decorated (though the tile floor is a tell that you’re in the basement). This room can host corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people or cocktail receptions of up to 70 people. You can get a suggested menu along with matching wines, showing that the staff takes care of all the details.

Only a moment after we pick our table, a waiter appears with a short list of specials. Make that a short list of specials with a long description of ingredients, preparation methods, and how they’re going to work together. The waiter apparently has a really good knowledge of his field, explaining to us what is a garnish compared to a side dish. The waiter could be best described as personable, friendly and efficient. While I can't decide whether I should order a whole sea bream (“Most people take a side with it, it’s just the fish,” our waiter cautions apologetically), we can look around a bit. Enhanced by smart lighting that adds lovely warmth to the airy dining room, the space is deceptively large while keeping a pleasant level of intimacy. I also appreciate the pleasant volume level - although almost all the tables around us are full, we can still talk easily and listen to the background music - probably D'Angelo and Stevie Wonder. The loft-style exposed brick walls are decorated with modern art in earthy hues, adding balance to the exposed ductwork painted in chocolate brown, probably not to look too sterile. Great for voyeurs, a semi-open kitchen offers a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar.

If you wish to read the rest of our review, please see our original article.