Mud Bugs a.k.a. Crawfish

Mud Bugs a.k.a. Crawfish

Few foods are so well known as part of "Cajun Country" as the lowly crawfish. Found only at the bottom of the bayou formerly now these little crustaceans show up everywhere now. They are found dressed up on dinner plates in fine restaurants as well as in backyard boiling pots or on the buffet line or cafeterias. If you are in Louisiana and they are in season then you will want to eat some of what has become one of the most distinctive food experiences Louisiana offers.

In the colloquial French of Acadiana, they are 'ecrevisse' or 'mud bugs.' You probably grew up calling them "crawdads" or "crayfish" and yet others know them as "crawfish" or simply "bait." Anywhere else in the USA, you will most likely find people putting a mud bug on a hook rather than on his plate.

Crawfish are documented as a part of Louisiana's culture dating back to the American Indians and the original French settlers. Mud bugs were not such a popular menu item even in 'Cajun Country' until the 'Great Depression'. It was during that time in the 1930's that they were not only eaten in crawfish bisque or a few places in a gumbo but became regular table fare for poor and better-off folks. Poor farm families in Louisiana did on occasion catch and then boil crawfish for their dinner table but it simply was not something they wanted to share with their neighbors. the rule was, crawfish were something you ate when nothing better was available.

Once they were featured however, at the Breaux Bridge Centennial Celebration in 1959, that lowly mud bugs gained their rightful and social acceptance. At last, crawfish had become cool! Mud bugs have continued to be the main focus yearly at the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival held just a few miles east of Lafayette, Louisiana. There are 75-105 million pounds of crawfish harvested on farms and the Atchafalaya Basin every year. Louisiana's tradition of culinary innovation has produced every imaginable recipe for this freshwater crustacean ranging from etouffee to enchiladas, gumbo to sushi, ceviche to omelets and evrything in between!. It is alouisiana that live crawfish may not be shipped out of the state thus making it possible to only get truly 'fresh' mud bugs only in that state.

In "Cajun Country" food is much, much more than just the sum of its ingredients. In order to really understand as well as appreciate what the crawfish has come to mean within this American sub-culture one truly must attend and take part in a backyard 'crawfish boil.' For many in 'Cajun Country,' a gathering family, neighbors and friends all together around the boiling pot is actually seen as a sacred rite of springtime. Crawfish season begins in December then reaches its peak during Lent then winds up in May or early June.

It simply is not practical and it certainly is not much fun to boil only a small amount of crawfish just for yourself. As you can see a crawfish boil is by its own nature, a huge community event rather than just a family feast. Crawfish boils are often hosted to mark special occasions such as a 1st Communion, an engagement, an anniversary or a graduation. More often though mud bug boils are just a good excuse to gather a group together outdoors in the cooler months where they can stand around, talk, socialize, drink beer, talk fishing, talk hunting or dispute the finer points of the boil seasoning. Be placed in charg of overseeing a big crawfish boil is no small time  honor. This task is only given to the most experienced boiler in a family, the proven master with the most refined skills and instincts for the perfect timing and taste.

Usually boiling rigs consists of an iron gas burner, portable of course, attached to a propane tank equipped with a tall pot or in many a case a converted beer keg, these items along with a mesh basket. Live crawfish go into the basket along with an assortment of fresh vegetables such as corn, small red potatoes and onions. The basket is then lowered into the pot of heavily seasoned and rapidly boiling water where it stays for about 8-12 minutes. Once the blue flame is switched off the crawfish and vegetables are allowed to soak for a while, usually about 10-12 minutes as they are absorbing the spices.

Finally, at long last comes what is termed, "the dump." After the basket is carefully taken from the water it is then rushed over to a table covered in multiple layers of newspaper. Once there its entire contents are dumped out to form a steaming mound of reddened mud bugs and vegetables. Everyone rushes the table with hands raking over their share of crawfish and vegetables. Crawfish can seem a little intimidating to the uninitiated. Start by peeling off their tough shells even if it does seem to be a challenge. With little patient picking you will be well rewarded with the sweet succulent and spicy meat that is reputed to be more delicate and tastier than lobster.

Face it, eating crawfish is messy but that is just part of the fun of the backyard boil. Prim and proper folks will will go home hungry. No need to bother with paper plates when newspaper will do? Napkins are replaced with a roll of paper towels! Ok, heck you got a little mud bug juice splattered on your shirt along with everybody else. It is all part of the fun!

If you do not get an invitation to a family backyard boil, 'Cajun Country 'visitors can still get a taste of the this delicious tradition. there are lots of restaurants that now serve boiled crawfish as well as crabs and shrimp in the same downhome and certainly informal atmosphere. You can have your own boil. All you need to do is round up a few friends, grab some newspapers, buy 10-15 pounds of crawfish, gather up your favorite spices then find a shady picnic table at a park.

Copyright © 2009 Donald R Houston, PhD. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed without the author's consent.