Architecture of the Past: Hovenweep & Mesa Verde

One of the most fascinating and mysterious of all canyon sights in my desert wanderings is the discovery of ancient Native American ruins.

They are scattered all over the desert southwest, but there are several clear "centers" or congregations of ruins that make up various former communities. One of my favorite such places is Hovenweep National Monument. It's a bit out of the way, and if you go in May, you'll want to not go in May because of the tiny biting flies that seem to defy any sort of organic or chemical repellent. It is found in southeastern Utah, near the Colorado border and fairly close by car to Mesa Verde National Park, another amazing hot spot of amazing ruins.

Hovenweep consists of many buildings, the most notable being the "castle" as it is called. It obviously served some special purpose because of it's central and visible location, as well as its unique architecture.

Hovenweep was built by the Anasazi Indians, and the first question that passes people's minds is "where did they go?" Both Hovenweep and Mesa Verde were abandoned about 1200 AD. For many years, scholars and archeologists wondered this, too. In the meantime, the Hopi Indians of northeastern Arizona constantly called the Anasazi "the old ones" and claimed to be their descendants. Finally, the smart folks started to listen. I don't know why it took so long, but I think it has to do a lot with the Hopi--and all Native Americans--being one of the most marginalized groups in the U.S.

Hopi legends match up with Anasazi history, and Hopi Elders seem to know instinctively where things are amongst the ruins. In one case, an archeologist took a Hopi Elder from the Fire Clan to Hovenweep, and he instantly said things like "There should be a shrine up there in that area" or "there should be a _____ over there" and each time such things were spoken, a new discovery was made of a shrine or something else. It was obvious that the Elder knew what he was talking about! Scholars are finally starting to listen to the Hopi about the many petroglyphs and pictographs in the area. The Hopi have stories that match them!

In Europe, it is often said that "all roads lead to Rome." In the desert southwest, pilots have traced ancient roads from the air; they all lead to Hovenweep. Maybe it's that amazing castle!

The ruins at Hovenweep consist of sandstone rocks, often roughly shaped into bricks. At one time, the entire structures were covered with a mud plaster. Now, the plaster has eroded over time and all that is left are the rock walls.

Getting even closer to the stone walls reveals that they used tiny rocks to fill in the gaps between the larger rocks.

The National Park Service leaves the buildings as they are and tries to preserve them in their current state rather than trying to rebuild them as they once were.

Of course, the best time to take photos of these ruins is right at sunset (when the flies are biting the worst!). The red sandstone seems as if it is on fire!

Nearby, Mesa Verde National Park is an astounding collection of many ruins, built in the shadows of the huge canyon walls.

The image above shows how complex these communities were. Understand, of course, that there were once many ladders, roofs of wooden poles and mud, and other structures here, making for a bustling community. The tallest tower in this community is about five stories high.

The photo above shows the inside of a kiva circle. The hole at the bottom of the image is a fire pit. Next to that is a smaller hole just out of sight here that is about six inches in diameter. This hole is now called by the Hopi a sipapu. It is the most sacred place in the Kiva. It symbolizes the portal through which the ancient ancestors first emerged to enter the present world. It is said that the Kachinas, super-being friends of the Hopi who help them and bring rain (they are not gods), go home to the underworld through this hole. Note how with the Anasazi and Hopi, their religious leaders officiate and stand below the audience instead of raised above them as in the Judeao-Christian tradition. I like that.

Above, a doorway leads to other areas of the Spruce Ruin at Mesa Verde. The sunset light was sure fun to work with. It did not last long!

I enjoyed how this tree's shadow played on the sunset-lit wall of this ruin.

Finally, we're actually inside a kiva that still has its roof. I liked how the light came in and illuminated the dust we must have stirred up.

Nearby to the south a couple of hours by car is Chaco Canyon Ruin, a huge complex. This photo above will have to suffice for now.

All of these ruins take place in country like this above. I think it's pretty astounding that folks could not only survive here, but thrive for hundreds of years.