Cookbook Review: The Mediterranean Vegan Kitchen by Donna Klein

This cookbook of regional Mediterranean recipes is subtitled, "Meat-Free, Egg-Free, Dairy-Free Dishes From the Healthiest Region Under the Sun". Since the 1960s, American researchers have taken a close look at the diet of the peoples who surround the Mediterranean Sea. The good health and longevity achieved there has been attributed largely to a varied, seasonal diet largely based on vegetables, legumes, herbs, olives, fish, poultry and grains. But an even healthier diet may be one including the vegan dishes of the area.

Because of the terrain and climate, the area is not well-suited for grazing large numbers of meat-producing animals. The dishes of the area therefore use meat sparingly, if at all. Chickens, fish and dairy products are prevalent, but due to their perishable natures in the warm climate, were traditionally not always available. Also, religious requirements for not eating meat or in some cases, no animal products at all for long periods of time, have all led to the development of vegan dishes served throughout the region.

The author has chosen to include only those authentic recipes as found around the Mediterranean instead of dishes inspired by the cuisine that are not authentic. She also includes vegan versions of recipes that usually include animal products such as pesto and tapenade. For recipes using cheese, she simply uses a recipe that omits it. She feels that substituting for ingredients like cheese or anchovies creates dishes that are somehow not correct, and that home cooks would most certainly have created recipes without these ingredients due to not having them occasionally, or for more particular palates, such as for children. She doesn't however have any fig recipes in the book as she feels figs are missing something if not presented with their natural accompaniment, honey.

Because the typical Mediterranean cuisines don't rely on large amounts of meats or dairy in their recipes, a vegan form of eating from this area seems very natural and not at all forced or restricted. The variety of dishes in this cookbook leaves one wondering what could possibly be missing from such an abundance of different things to eat.

The recipes are straightforward with clear, detailed instructions on how to make them. Ingredient lists are not excessive or made up of unusual ingredients. None of the ingredients are substitutes for animal products. You won't find any tofu cutlets, miso in place of anchovies or soy cheeses here. The ingredients are those that are actually used in this region.

While there are no pictures in this book, the descriptions of the recipes and how to put them together, gives a good idea of what to expect. All the text is in either black or dark grey and is easy to read. Some of the recipes unfortunately run on to the next page, creating a need to turn pages, but most are on the same page or continue onto the facing page.

Each recipe comes with a nutritional analysis listing calories, protein, total fat, saturated fat, cholesterol (0 for all recipes, of course), carbohydrates, dietary fiber and sodium. Many recipes have tips on how to prepare the recipes or a portion of them in advance. And quite a few also have variations listed for the recipe.

There are so many recipes I'd like to try in this book. I could cook from this one cookbook alone for many months and be quite satisfied. Some of the recipes I have tried, or would like to, include: Chickpeas with Parsley-Tahini Sauce; Provencal Chickpea Puree; Provencal Chickpea Flour Pancake; Wild Mushroom Spread with Croutons; Eggplant Roll-Ups with Pesto; Hummus with Roasted Red Pepper and Cilantro; Zucchini Marinated with Sherry Vinegar and Mint; Microwave Vegetable Broth; Moroccan Carrot Soup; Garlic Soup with Potatoes, Italian Style; Tunisian Beet Salad with Harissa; Roasted Red Pepper and Zucchini Salad; Romaine Salad with Lemon-Date Dressing; Couscous with Peas, Lettuce and Mint; Ditali with Cauliflower; Poor Man's Pesto; Spaghettini with Green Sauce; Artichoke Hearts, Mushrooms, and Peas in a Lemon Sauce; Baked Onions, Italian Style; Greek Style Artichoke and Bean Stew;  Herbed Onion Confit; Apples Poached in White Wine; and Italian White Grape Ice.

The Bibliography is a serious source of temptation for this cookbook collector. The list of cookbooks could be added in its entirety to my wish list!

The Meals in Minutes chapter is a very well-done list of menu suggestions for different size gatherings and events. It's a great way to learn how to put a well-rounded vegan menu together for at home or entertaining.

This cookbook has become a favorite of mine, not just as a vegan cookbook, but overall. There are so many great recipes to make that stand alone or as side dishes for a non-vegan menu. Anyone who enjoys the foods of the Mediterranean region will find dozens of things to try here.

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Contents

Acknowledgments
Introduction

Appetizers
Soups
Salads
Pasta, Rice and Other Grains
Vegetables and Legumes
Breads
Desserts

Meals in Minutes
Bibliography
Metric Conversion Charts
Index
About the Author

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Lentil and Escarole Soup

Mild, sweet-tasting lentils are cleverly paired with aggressive, bitter-tasting greens in countless dishes throughout the Mediterranean. This particular soup is my family's favorite way to enjoy escarole--in fact, it is the only way for my children, who otherwise won't touch the rather churlish, yet ever so healthy green.

Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion (6 to 8 ounces), chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
4 ounces (about 2 small) carrots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, about 8 ounces each, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 1/4 cups lentils, rinsed and picked over
3 cups vegetable broth, preferably Basic Vegetable Broth (page 38) or low-sodium canned
3 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large head escarole (about 1 1/4 pounds), washed, drained and coarsely chopped

In a medium stockpot, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, celery, carrots, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

Add the lentils, broth, water, salt, and pepper; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, partially covered, until the lentils are tender but not falling apart, about 45 minutes. Add the escarole, stirring well to combine. Bring to a brisk simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, until the escarole is tender, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve hot.

Advance Preparation - The soup can be held, covered, over very low heat for one hour before serving. The soup can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for two days. Reheat over low heat. In either instance, if it becomes too thickened, add more broth or water.

Per serving - Calories 386, Protein 30g, Total Fat 8g, Saturated Fat 1g, Cholesterol 0mg, Carbohydrate 54g, Dietary Fiber 27g, Sodium 454mg

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Book Title: The Mediterranean Vegan Kitchen
Author(s): Donna Klein
Category: Vegan, Mediterranean
ISBN: 1557883599
Publisher: HPBooks
Publisher website: www.penguinputnam.com
Date published: 2001
Edition: first
Description: soft cover
Illustrated: no
Photographs: no
Ink color(s): black
Pages: 251
Number of Recipes: 300+
List Price: US$ 17.95