Madrid - It’s More Than Just An Airport

While doing some world-class tapas hopping after a day of exploring this garden and museum filled city in the heart of Spain, I realized that Madrid is much more than just an airport.

How could I have missed that? Granted, Antonio Lamela and Richard Rogers designed the beautiful Barajas International Airport in Madrid big enough to be a city. I’m sure there’s a name for the style, but I can only describe it as stunningly multi-colored industrial Huzzah!

The first time I landed there on Iberia Airlines the airport was only partially open. I had to be bussed to the new section to make connections. My eyes widened at the curving, natural-lighted sheer size of it. It is a huge (football stadiums would fit in it) multi-level expanse stretching almost farther than I could see in both directions, then I crossed a glass bridge and found another immense section just like it.

This is a building unsullied by most planes. For international airline service one must take a 15 minute subway ride to an equally daunting structure that could be the duplicate of the first. It is an amazing space, built on a huge scale and filled with thousands of bustling people. It could be the Capital of Spain, but isn’t. Spain’s capital, Madrid, is a metro ride away, filled with its own marvelous architecture and millions more people. It was time I took the opportunity to explore it.

Picasso's Guernica painting is at the Reina Sofia Museum. If you see only one work of art on your Madrid tour, and you will definitely want to see works of art - it’s unavoidable in this city of art - Guernica is the one to see. I first visited the city of Guernica, the birthplace of Spanish democracy, to understand its history, and to better understand the meaning of Picasso's painting. So finding his huge canvas associated with the horrors of war dominating its room at the Reina brought it all into focus. In black and gray, Picasso used a traditional Spanish theme of bullfighting coupled with a universal one of a mother mourning her child, no war scenes at all, to capture the loss of the city and its loss to the Spanish psyche. When it acquired this painting, Reina Sofia rose to become one of the most important contemporary art museums in the world.

If you are more of a traditionalist, The Prado Museum houses an incredible collection of Old Masters as well as the more modern painters. It so rarely rains in Madrid, but I found myself wishing for a rainy day to spend within its walls, surrounded by Velazquez, El Greco, Titian, Raphael, Rubens, Rembrandt, and, of course, so many more including Picasso. In fact, I expected to find his Guernica here, but it was moved to the Reina Sofia years ago. Prado’s collection is overwhelming enough without it. You’ll need a rainy week to see it all! If one has the time, there are dozens of other museums to visit in Madrid. Mine was just a short stay, and I wanted to be sure and see the gardens, too.

From early Spring through mid-June is the best time for gardeners to visit Madrid. In May, especially, the city is in full bloom, and each garden offers an oasis from the bustle of this busy Capital city. My favorite, if I had to choose, would be the Jardín Botánico de Madrid on the Paseo del Prado nearby the Prado Museum. It is one of the most outstanding botanical gardens in Europe. The Jardín Botánico has a research center with over 1,000,000 botanical specimens, a library of over 32,000 volumes, many of which are digitally available for research, and an incredible collection of 1000s of plants in its 20 acres of landscaped beauty.

King Charles III decreed in 1781 that it be used "for the health and recreation of his vassals." More recently the famous Brazilian Landscape Architect Roberto Burle Marx described the purpose of public gardens this way: "They return to the people the green that the city stole from them." So, for health and recreation, and a bit of the lush natural world we need for our pavement-bound souls, be sure to include a visit to the Jardín Botánico when touring the streets of  Madrid.

When you simply have to take a break from the museums and gardens, late morning and late afternoon are excellent times to enjoy Madrid’s specialty - Tapas. Around 11 AM begins "la hora del aperitivo" or "the snack hour” in neighborhoods such as Paseo del Prado, Fuencarral Street, or around the Santa Ana Square. Here you will find some of the best tapas bars. Take a leisurely stroll from bar to bar enjoying a glass of wine or beer, and partake of the wide selection of tapas featured.

Expect to see something as simple as olives with an anchovy filet, a fried sweet green pepper dipped in salt, or a single, translucent slice of Iberian ham on a wedge of crusty bread, but don’t be surprised by more elaborate offerings. The selection is limited only by the creativity of the chef. Besides the ubiquitous (and delicious) potato tortilla, I’ve tasted fresh anchovy filet wrapped around squid, with tomatoes and watercress in an ink sauce, and a puff pastry "boat" stuffed with crab salad skewered with an upright shrimp "sail". Both were visually and culinarily stunning!

Tapas is one tradition you can taste anywhere in Spain, but Madrid is famous for the quantity and variety offered. Tapas can be snacks, or a whole meal, but they are always the best flavors of Spain in the most congenial settings you can find.  So, go to Madrid. It’s way more than just an airport. Eat, sightsee and enjoy - Buen Provecho!

Spain

Madrid

Barajas International Airport

Iberia Airlines

Reina Sofia Museum

Prado Museum

Royal Botanic Garden of Madrid (Jardín Botánico)

Roberto Burle Marx

Madrid Tapas
http://www.madrid-guide-spain.com/madrid-tapas.html

Richard Frisbie, FOOD Correspondent:

RICHARD FRISBIE is published twice a month to Gather Essentials: Food. It is a food junkie's take on growing, raising, preparing and - above all else - eating food. Together we’ll explore the trends, addictions, equipment and regional specialties that make up the sometimes mundane and sometimes sublime cooking and dining experience. You can keep up with my other postings and Gather activity by joining my Gather network -- I look forward to hearing from you.

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