Midcoast Maine: More than meets the eye

"All I could see from where I stood was three long mountains and a wood. I turned and looked another way and saw three islands in a bay." ~ Renascence, Edna St. Vincent Millay

With all due respect to my favorite poetess, today's travelers will see a whole lot more when they explore Camden, Maine, the quintessential harbor town, where, in 1912, Millay penned her classic verse high atop Mount Battie.

In mid-July, sidewalks spill over with foot traffic as cars crawl along scenic Route 1, bumper-to-bumper. Don't worry -- there are enough bakeries and brewpubs, chowder houses and country inns in this quaint little village to serve anyone who can afford the gas to get here, and even at peak season you won't have to wait in line. Dozens of galleries and gift shops populate Camden's historic downtown, and at last count, I spotted five independent bookstores, a sure sign of a healthy economy.

Maybe that's why everyone is smiling. The warm, salty breeze washes over you and suddenly you're a million miles from home.

Windjammers hoist their sails, kayakers zip up their life vests, and sooner or later just about everyone heads out to sea to explore the jagged coast. The essence of Maine is revealed in lighthouses, lobster boats, and pine-shrouded islands, each with its own unique story.

When we signed up for a sunset cruise on the 86-foot schooner Appledore II to get a closer look, we didn't realize we'd hear tales as tall as the masts. Owner John McKean, better known as "The Commodore," was on deck that night, regaling his guests with his (mis)adventures – from bar hopping in Key West to leading wildlife safaris in East Africa. We didn't see any giraffes on the horizon, but we were nearly stampeded by sailboats racing neck and neck alongside our bow.

After an exhilarating, two-hour ride, we pointed our sea legs in the direction of the Waterfront Restaurant, which turned out to be as comfortable inside as it looked from the outside. I devoured every morsel of my seared sea scallops, served with spinach and goat cheese pesto and a refreshing glass of pinot grigio. If the sauce sounds a little too froufrou, remember that the ingredients come straight from local fishermen and farmers, and these people are about as down-to-earth as you can get.

For a birds-eye view of the harbor, take the auto road to the top of Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park, two miles north of Camden on Route 1. Near the stone observation tower is a map identifying the islands that dot the bay, and a plaque commemorating Edna St. Vincent Millay. I can't think of a better vantage point from which to read her poem, Renascence.

COMING SOON:
Maine Lobster Fest, July 30 – August 3, Rockland, Maine
14th Annual Windjammer Weekend, August 29, 30 and 31, Camden
Country Roads Artisans Tour, September 12, 13, 14

NEARBY:
Sandiest seashore: Lincolnville Beach, 10 minutes north of Camden on Route 1

Favorite gallery: The Farnsworth Art Museum & Wyeth Center, 16 Museum St., Rockland, 17 minutes south of Camden

Best place to catch a sunset: The Dip Net, a wonderful lobster shack in Port Clyde, 50 minutes south of Camden, Route 1 to Route 131, not far from the Marshall Point Lighthouse

GETTING THERE:
Camden is three hours north of Boston. Take Interstate 95 north to Brunswick, then follow Route 1 north to Rockland. Continue on Route 1 to Camden.

The Culinary Tourist appears twice a month in Gather Essentials: Travel. Go exploring with award-winning documentary producer Lisa Gensheimer as she discovers the fun, food and people she meets along the way. Whether you're visiting the home of a faraway friend, stopping for directions at a roadside market, or on holiday in an exotic location, richly layered experiences await. Read more about Lisa's work at Main Street Media or join Lisa's gather network.