Clearwater Florida is a narrow barrier island similar in size and composition to Miami, but on the west coast of Florida. It is a natural paradise offshore the sprawling urbanity of Tampa and St. Petersburg, with a beach voted the "Best City Beach on the Gulf of Mexico." 
The first time I was in Clearwater Florida it was a honky-tonk stripmall of a beach town, more a rundown poor relation to the St. Petersburg/Tampa region than a destination. Well, a lot has changed in 30 years since I was there, and it's all for the better. A recent visit left me amazed at the variety of hiking, kayaking and sailing experiences to be had, but nothing prepared me for the culinary changes that have taken place. Foodie Alert! The restaurants in Clearwater are HOT!
Dining Alfresco
I had two meals on the beach that were as memorable for the location as the food. Jack Guy, Director of Sales and Marketing for the magnificent Sheraton Sand Key Resort, hosted a great sunset dinner under a large tent, with servers and chefs and a steel drum player. It was festive and delicious, a wonderful exposure to the fresh seafood available locally. The Sheraton is one of the few places in all of Clearwater where drinks are available on the beach. So besides great wines with our dinner, we were feted with shots of mojitos that had skewered chicken meatballs balanced on the rim. The plan was to eat the chicken, washing it down with the alcohol-laden drink, all while watching for the green flash when the fiery ball of red sun sank into the gulf. After a few shots I didn't care what the chicken tasted like (it was very tasty!) It was such a good party that at sunset when no one saw the green flash, I threatened to photoshop it into my pictures for them!
Another day we had a sunrise breakfast on the beach hosted by Joanna Patterson-Rizkallah, Director of Sales and Marketing for Hilton Clearwater Beach Resort, which just completed a stunning $26M renovation. It is another place where drinks could be served in the sand, so we had eggs benedict and bloody mary's all around. I know it sounds a bit decadent to be dining in tents on the beach, with chefs and servers and freshly prepared food on site, but at the time it seemed so natural. That is part of Clearwater's charm, and a credit to my hosts. Both their hotels are an important part of the revitalization of Clearwater, sharing in the billion dollar investment being made to beautify the Beach Walk.
Watercolour Steakhouse and Grille
My favorite meal of the many good meals took place at the Watercolour Steakhouse and Grille, at Marriott Suites on Sand Key. Chef Jason Poulakis really knows how to turn great food into an impressive presentation. Dinner was served on the gently lighted waterfront patio with complimentary blue cocktails that tasted like a popsicle but packed a powerful wallop. They were followed by the most impressive appetizer I've ever seen. A huge platter holding an equally huge bowl, both filled with ice and seafood, was delivered to a side table. It was too big for our dinner table! There were king crab legs split lengthwise already for easy eating, with oysters, clams and lemons on the tray. A whole lobster crowned the bowl which was filled with more crab legs and oysters, plus stone crab claws, and with the bowl rimmed with shrimp. It was really an over-the-top seafood platter!
After carefully listening to our waiter and his answers to my questions, I ordered the best steak in the house - a 12 oz filet mignon ($35.00) "certified Angus Beef" aged 18 -24 days. There is a sensibly sized 6 oz filet, but he felt the larger one cooked better and made a better presentation. I went with his choice, and I'm glad I did. First, the way it was cooked surprised me. I've never heard of this before: He said "All of our steaks are broiled on an infra-red broiler at approximately 1600 degrees to lock in the mouthwatering juices. Our steaks are then placed on a 400 degree sizzling platter so that it remains hot during your meal. We then top each steak with our special seasoning (our owner's special recipe handed down through generations) to accompany the flavorful juices." I know he meant that because my plate was so hot it was served on a plate of its own!
Dessert was another spectacle. First, kudos for the most creative plating I've ever seen. These multi-plate candelabras of dessert were delivered to a side table. (I guess my only complaint about the meal was that there wasn't enough room on our table to place the beautiful displays of food!) Anyway, the angles and heights of the dessert plates were changeable! It's such a smart way to showcase delicious looking desserts.
A Natural Paradise
Well, there you have it. Clearwater is a beautiful natural paradise with local government and private individuals investing a billion dollars to keep it that way, and to make it better. There's hiking, boating and sailing, plus first-class swimming on a world-class beach. When you tire of the ice and snow and utility bills of a typical Northern winter, think of spending some quality time in 80 degree weather next year instead. From a few weeks to a season, Clearwater, Florida is a nice place to visit, but a better place to live.
www.visitclearwaterflorida.com Clearwater Tourism
www.clearwaterbeachresort.com Hilton
watercolourgrille.com Watercolour Grille at the Marriott
www.sandpearl.com Sandpearl Hotel
www.sheratonsandkey.com Sheraton
Richard Frisbie, FOOD Correspondent:
RICHARD FRISBIE is published twice a month to Gather Essentials: Food
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Comments: 27
That seafood bowl sounds like a dream come true!!! If I ever go to the Tampa-Clearwater area, it will be on my to enjoy list! I *love* seafood, and especially platters of raw clams and oysters plus crab legs! And lobster! Oh, lobster!
The photos and text are wonderful. It ooks so beautiful and the food exquisite. How wonderful. Thank you once again for sharing a wonderful time with us.
I'm curious if any of these places are going "green" or "local-slowfood-growing their own"? I found that several restaurants in Hawaii are aiming toward sustainability and buying as much a possible locally or growing their own herb and vegetable gardens.
However - aside from the only serving stone crab claws (the crabs are released and regrow their claws!) I only saw local fish being used. The strawberries and tomatoes were local in the sense that they were from Florida farms. So - there is an awareness, but only a little implementation of Restaurant Supported Agriculture. (RSA)
PREVIEW - next week I'm going to be in San Mateo County where they ARE into (RSA) and want to show it off to me. I'll be writing about that in June.
They were created for our visit - called Watercolour Cosmopolitans - and now are on their very impressive drink menu.
Faith - it really was a dream vacation. I went sailing, kayaking, hiking and everywhere I went there were great food and drinks.
Thanks Kimberly. I think we'd both like to be back on those 80 degree beaches right now (50s and rain in NY - ARGH!!!)
Clearwater Beach once had an impressive pier, and the first crime I ever committed was an eat and run at a HOJO when I was just a few days past my 15th bday. But I degress.
St. Petersburg's Don Cesare Hotel is truly splendid in an old world kind of way. Beyond the array of four and five star restaurant hotels, there are some fine old seafood shacks in St. John's Pass where the oysters are as fresh as the fisherman, and you can get the catch of the day anyway you like it.
richard - mojitos - yes, my dear - that's on my list - drink mojitos with Richard on the beach someday - how delightful to think about! I'm already designing my outfit and coral jewelry! Salud.
Mariana - my refrigerator is stuffed and I'm rarely home to make anything anymore. After a culinary jaunt to San Francisco next weekend I promise to stay home and work and cook until someone calls me away!