I rarely eat beef, but once a year I make a Jewish recipe in celebration of an Irish holiday. That's right, I make corned beef and cabbage for St Patrick's Day. But first I have to corn the beef, and therein lies the story. In order to make the brine the beef "corns", or pickles in, I have to bring to a boil and let cool 4 quarts of water, one and a half cups salt, 1 Tbs sugar, 2 Tbs pickling spice, 8 large bay leaves, 6 peeled cloves of garlic and one more ingredient**. Then a 5 lb hunk of beef (not too thick, fat removed) is submerged in the brine, covered, for 12 days (use a plate to weight it down.) Remove from the brine, rinse, and cook it on a low boil for about three hours with a carrot and celery stick. You now can serve perfect corned beef!
**that last ingredient is the problem - it's one half ounce saltpeter. I realized I was all out, so I headed off on a fruitless search for some.
While there are anecdotal stories that saltpeter is used in certain institutional kitchens to repress the male libido, for some reason the armed forces immediately springs to mind, it is primarily used to make gun powder - and dynamite.
So here I am, innocently enough to my mind, going from shop to shop trying to purchase bomb making material, giving some cockamamie story about needing it for a recipe. And where did I get the recipe from? Why, the Anarchist's Cookbook, of course. I can almost hear the news announcement:
Radical Bomber Arrested, Terrorist Cell Broken - story at eleven.Maybe I have too vivid an imagination. The recipe was in the old Time Life series "Foods of the World". Saltpeter really has a secondary use as a meat preservative, although it is an archaic one. Stores don't stock it anymore because there just isn't a demand, not because it might be dangerous. Now most people buy the inferior tasting packaged corned beef right off the supermarket shelves. Still, I'm an "old-fashioned" kind of guy who likes to make things from scratch. Certainly no one suspected I was a terrorist. Or did they? I do know that one store asked me if I were making a bomb. They were kidding, right? Two places asked me to leave my name and phone number, and said they would call if they could order any. Was it to give to the authorities, instead? I don't know.
I might be on some homeland security list by now. My prescriptions could be examined to see what drugs I'm on, and my credit card records studied to see what other bomb ingredients I purchased. Phone numbers I've called could be cross-checked against those of known terrorists, and my video rentals examined for evidence of a viewing pattern of anti-social/anti-government fare. My book purchases and library "borrowings" could be checked for seditious material, and my neighbors could be interviewed about my comings and goings.
All of a sudden I could find myself trying to explain to a humorless law enforcer that I bought pipe at Lowe's to repair frozen plumbing, I like Bruce Willis movies, and that it was a good sale on batteries so I stocked up in case of emergency. God forbid I should be so stupid as to buy a few extra 40# bags of lawn fertilizer when K-MART was closing! I'd be behind bars faster than you can say "innocent until proven guilty". Bill of Rights? What is that?
Don't laugh, it could happen. That is one of the scary things about the world we live in. Our personal rights have been subverted by the federal government in the name of Homeland Security, and legislated away "for our own good" by people for whom reading the Sunday funnies is a literary event. This is an insidious regression, a whittling away at the fundamentals of liberty our founding fathers fought and died to secure. And, I could be labeled unpatriotic just because I want to corn my own beef!
Bon Appetit!Edited and reprinted from a Jan 13th 2006 Gather entry. The full recipe and photos of this year's radical dinner will appear here later this week. Happy St Patrick's Day everyone!


Comments: 37
(Just don't call me anytime soon, OK? I'm already on enough lists.)
Great mixture of humor and cautionary tale Richard. I agree 100% about those people for whom reading the Sunday funnies is a literary event.
Take care and enjoy your St. Patrick's Day dinner!
Your recipe is a Feature at the POST OFFICE. I mean, the Triple Name Club.
Madame - I have you on speed dial. My "friends" will call you soon.
Now I have to walk around wearing Groucho Marx glasses and mustache as a disguise, Faith. You'll never recognize me again.
Oh, the difference between homemade corned beef and the plastic wrapped stuff is enormous! Which Foods of the World book is the recipe in? I have several of the series.
I didn't know about the male libido suppressing side effect. I can think of people who would call that terrorism of a kind! Ladies, no need to fake a headache! Just serve up a corned beef on rye! (I love those because they make me think of the pleasure of being in Manhattan and eating one at the legendary Carnegie Deli!)
Another ingredient for certain preserving methods is just as hard to find, sour salt a/k/a citric acid. Fortunately, Philadelphia has 2 reliable sources.
I admire you for going to all of this trouble to make corned beef. Of course, I admire you for cooking. I don't usually do such things.
The 'saltpetre' would probably be available from a hunting/camping supply place that carries a serious inventory (BassPro anyone?). Are there any game meat processing places (or butcher shops who will do this for a fee) where you are? (Sorry, haven't looked to see if you're in mid-town Manhattan or not).
Good luck with the hunt. And I will be digging out my mother's copy of the Foods of the World books when I am over there tonight.
I'm also shocked by alll the "to much trouble", but then, I know people who use frozen chopped green beans because it is too much trouble to trim and lovingly cook fresh ones. :-(
Sour salt is always available at the Spice Terminal at the Reading Terminal Market and the Spice Corner at the Italian Market in Philadelphia. It's good to know about the ethnic stores in other places.
Lisa - there is infighting on Gather? Will wonders never cease! You were wise to come here where we jump out of the frying pan only to find ourselves in the fire!
Kimberly - drag your daughter to that diner. Do you know how rare it is to find anyone who corns their own beef? (VERY!)
FYI...when I started out a a nurse, about a hundred years ago we used saltpeter on the nursing home residents who were a little too frisky for their own good... Now we use "Tagamet", a well known stomach acid reducer. It works like a charm...
I am gravely concerned about the erosion of rights in America, those rights were the counterbalance to all the rediculous wars (almost).
Please tell me how a photo of a brioche puts a place at risk...well, maybe if it was a really bad brioche the French might call a strike....but this was a very pretty brioche and I had to have "just the right one" for my Brioche tour at the end one of my blog articles....Yikes! It just dawned on me: I'm your French connection....
Now to calm my French Connection:
Susan, there are no ingredients listed on my Pickling Spices jar. I know it contains
mustard seed
celery seed
powered cloves
cardamom seed
fennel seed
mine also has pieces of bay leaves, but if yours does not - no matter - because you add bay leaves anyway. It is only 2 TBS of mixed spices, so you could use your judgement. Suggestion: Ask your butcher, or the shop clerk about the pickling spices they use to make pickles.
To amend the recipe slightly:
boil 4-6 qts water (depending on the size of your crock) with all the spices except Garlic. Add 8 peeled cloves of garlic when you add the meat to the cool brine. Store away from direct heat in a cool place for 12 days. When cooking, add an onion to the water.
Some of the importance of the Saltpeter is that it lets the meat retain the red color. It was the unappetizing gray color of the meat brined without saltpeter (as much as the smell) that mad me discard the meat the year I wrote about above. Now I have a lifetime supple of saltpeter -about 2 cups (@ 1 1/2 TBS a pop I've got enough for a few years at least! I don't just make this for St Paddy's Day!))
We use it a lot in Scottish and Irish cooking - as a basis for hearty soups, for instance, and then the meat is eaten after the broth with lots of vegetables.
http://www.europeancuisines.com/Irish-Boiled-Bacon-Pork-And-Cabbage
Just wanted to stop in to tell you congratulations for being featured on Gather's homepage right now!
Here's a 10 rating & have a nice day. :o)
How about some Monday, you post a humorous article about food (or anything else) for me at Gather Writing Essentials Humor Monday?
Love to see that. Thanks.