MPR's Midmorning featured guest John Trostle, a home inspector. From the show description:
Winter's coming to an end, and that means spring home improvement and repair projects are right around the corner. Have no fear! Midmorning's home repair guru can answer your questions.
Trostle agreed to continue the conversation with us here on Gather. This is the chat transcript.
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Comments: 59
I have the manuals coming for training in this if gordo ever turns 'em loose!
How do you advise a buyer during the buyer inspection if the seller has made improvements (kitchen remodel, sun room addition) without pulling the appropriate permits.
John replied: That is a hard question to answer without actually seeing what is happening and viewing the foundation. My tendency would be to get a reliable contractor that you've obtained through referral and have them VIEW the problem because that's something you really must see to get a feel for how to correct the issue.
John, How do you advise a buyer during the buyer inspection if the seller has made improvements (kitchen remodel, sun room addition) without pulling the appropriate permits.
John replied: Nice to hear from you Bruce. That is a common occurrence. I tend to fall into the category in caring whether it has been done well and correctly as opposed to worrying that it hasn't been done under permit. And I will often quote statistics from building inspection departments that suggest a surprising percentage of work is done without permits.
I've got a few missing shingles that have slipped away from from a couple areas of my roof during heavy winds in the past couple of years. Is it easy to replace these once I get on the roof? Thanks!
John replied: It is easy to do if you have the right tools: a good smallish pry bar. The key is to not further the damage to the shingles when you are replacing these damaged shingles. The most difficult part is lifting the shingle tab above the replacement shingle so that when you nail the new shingle, the nails won't be left exposed.
Thanks, John, for the sane and good advice.
Question: I have a bathroom without a window and a fan, of course. The vent lost its flap that blocks cold winds from coming in. How to fix that?
Thank you!!!
John replied: Are you saying you have no exhaust fan?
An alternate (additional?) question for John: Is it safe to install a raingarden within 8 feet of a building with no basement? Raingardens collect rain runoff and let it soak into the ground in a plant bed. I'd like to do one near my townhouse to provide nice planting and a bit of privacy. Thanks!
John replied: It should be no problem as long as there is at least a slight grade draining away from the home.
I've had water dripping through a light fixture on my top floor and some staining around it. This happened last year around this time as well and we had a roofer come out. He said it looked like a piece of metal at the top of the roof had pulled away and was letting water get in. He said he fixed it, and we didn't have the problem again until now. My attic is only a crawl space but I've been up in the areas I can get to. I don't see any obvious leaks but the bottom of most of the plywood roof boards is wet. I also see some ice around the outside walls. Is it a leak or condensation or both/something else? What should I look for? I know I need to take care of this, but who do I call? Are they all handled by a roofer? Can this work be done in the winter?
John replied: I suspect that it could be condensation or an ice damming situation and that moisture follows the path of least resistance so it can cover a pretty good distance when it hits the electrical conduit or wiring and leak through our fixtures. My suggestion would be likely better ventilation and insulation in those areas and I'd suggest an energy audit followed up by a good insulation contractor. They can generally address the venting and insulation problem. That work can be done in the winter.
We have a 1936 full brick colonial in south Minneapolis. We have a moisture issue. During the winter we have condensation/frost on the inside of the aluminum storm windows, especially upstairs on the south side. We had the windows re-installed and insulated as you described in 2005, but we had the moisture previously. We have an Aprilaire humidifier which we use because even with this window moisture, our hygrometers only say 20% in the bedroom in question and 40% in the front foyer. Do we have a serious problem? Is there probably frost in the uninsulated wall cavities? Thanks for your help,
John replied: There could be frost... the likely source of the problem is the possible lack of adequate wall insulation, which may be allowing warm inside air to get into the window cavity between the prime and storm window. Adding wall insulation is expensive and a bit difficult in your situation. And I would generally suggest not using that central humidifier, possibly switching to smaller, portable units in an as-needed basis.
There was a lot of questions during the show today about mold. I am a renter and have black colored mold on the ceiling above my shower. Is this a safety concern for my roommate and I that we should be persueing with my landlord?
John replied: It can be - and should be - cleaned up with a water and bleach solution. And then discuss with the landlord if there is not an openable window or an exhaust fan in the bathroom having one installed. Since it is old, it may need one to create better ventilation after showering.
How can I get a good-quality plumbing contractor to take on a collection of small jobs I have in my 1929 St. Paul house? A neighbor recommended a contractor who bid on a big job (replacing some hot water heating system pipes) but we didn't end up hiring him. Now we have other problems like leaky faucets, a toilet that doesn't flush very well, and a valve to be replaced, and I have called and called that same contractor but he never has called me back. How to make a small job attractive?
John replied: Oftentimes by contacting a smaller plumbing company and letting them know that you have a few projects that need to be handled. Sometimes its a matter of limiting your conversation to that in order to get them to the house. It is a common occurrence that many contractors are far less interested in the small repairs.
i own a 1940s house, when there is a lot of rain or snow melting there are two lines of water on our carpet right next to our 1/2 woodpanelled wall in our basement and a couple of spots in the middle of the floor. i am assuming there is probably a crack in the foundation and in the floor causing this. is this something we can fix by taking down the panelling and pulling up the carpet, patching the cracks and putting up new walls and carpet over the patch work (assuming that is what one would do)? thank you!!!
John replied: It is possible. However, typically basement water intrusion is coming in at hte base of the foundation and raising the exterior grade to slope away for drainage is the best starting point. Sometimes you have to pull th wall covering to see the source, especially if the source appears to be coming in higher than the base of the basement walls.
I should mention also it is also generally better - if possible - to eliminate the intrusion on the exterior side rather than the interior.
I'd really appreciate your help. I have a lake home that had to be raised due to the high water table, so it sits a bit higher than average. I put in a block foundation and then a slab floor with radiant in-floor heating, which I love. To save money this winter, I put it on 'off-peak' and it's fine unless it's REALLY cold. Then the 8pm to 8am heat is just not enough to keep the place warm. Can I insulate the OUTSIDE of the blocks? Would that help? There's new insulation in the roof and next year I'll cover more windows, but... what else can I do? THANKS!
John replied: It may help to insulate the exterior side of that block, however sometimes the in floor radiant heat cannot keep up with the heat loss in that particular application. A secondary source needs to be added.
John, I have a 1940 wood frame home. Along the top and bottom of the first story there are 1" vent holes about 3' apart. No one can tell me why they are there. I'd like to remove these vents as some have lost the little filters covering the holes. Would removing and filling in the holes have an adverse effect?
John replied: Likely, not. And they were probably installed to promote air circulation in the home.
John; is there yet any national certification program for H. I's??? thanks, Lloyd
John replied:No there is not. It is typically done on a state by state basis. Minnesota does not at this time does not require licensing of home inspectors.
John, I own a 2002 double wide.Outside, on the north side of the house, on the vinyl siding there is a green staining that wipes away but always returns. Could this be mold coming from inside the walls. Inside the house at this area is the washing machine. There is no mold showing in the house or where the wash water is pumped out.
John replied: Bob I'm only guessing here... however I think its more likely an exterior occurring moss or fungus of some type, typical of the north side of structures ... and trees!
Hi - The top of my kitchen cabinets is separating from the bottom of the soffit. What to do? Thanks.
John replied: They likely can simply be re-secured. Probably fasteners are giving way a bit.
Hi John, Would you give us the contact information for the excellent handyman you mentioned on air? Many thanks!
John replied: Sure. Rick Anderson @ 612 - 237 - 6827
the floor of the 2nd floor addition does not match the original. oops. we need to tear out some of the underlayment on the original to match the new. What tool can we use to cut the underlayment next to the wall? Dremel or a chisel?
John replied: Uh I would use a sawzall.
We had a major remodel including insulation but our roof is devoid of snow before most of the other houses in our neighborhood. Also, the attic is too warm. The contractor came back and suggested more insulation around the doors to the attic. But we are still having same problem. Do you have any suggestions?
John replied Possibly the issue is you need more ventilation. Uh.. generally you want one sq ft of ventilation for every 150 sq ft of attic floor space. More insulation may be needed depending on how much is presently there. Less than 15" may require more and it is indeed important to insulate and/or weatherstrip or seal attic access hatches or scuttles.
Hi, John... When we bought our home in 1988, we had it inspected. It was 100 years old at the time. We were assured that it was sound, structurally, at that time. There was a raised area all the way around the living room where the floor had settled on the wall that had been built around the small, single room of our partial basement. We had a company come out to level the floor, which involved removing the wall in the basement and and gradually evening out the floors, as they supported them from the basement. We were told that there would be more cracks than usual, as a result. That may or may not figure into the current situation. We had that done shortly after we moved in, in the late '80's.
What is happening NOW is that there are places where the plaster has bumped out somewhat. It's puckered, I'd say. That seems to have happened only on the main level. Also, there are places where the walpaper is torn from what I assume is the house settling. I'm not sure when that occurred. I'm wondering if we're in serious trouble with our foundation, or if this is more or less par for the course in a house as old as ours. Would it be helpful to have it re-inspected, getting estimates (just ballpark figures) of what the various repairs would cost...or should we just get a general contracter in? We need to address a # of issues with the house at this point. Thank you... Rose
John replied: I am assuming a stone foundation, and would (only guessing here!) assume the changes done when you first purchased are still getting a reaction from the foundation and the balloon framing of the home that was typical of the era. Generally, I would suggest you don't want to create perfection with your walls and floors in a house of that era due to very high costs, but now it may be wise to get a reasonable and reliable general contractor to assess the situation and discuss possible options.
Hi, The tile grout in our 1940 orig. tile bathroom needs to be replaced. What is the best way to remove grout without damage to the tile which we would like to retain?
Regarding the 'old smelling house'...the smell is coming from the walls...hence, 'if walls could talk'.
and lastly...if there are any handymen in the discussion or know someone who is handy...they have a huge untapped market (the good handyman) that will never lack for work, even during uncertain times!!! There are more un-handy homeowners now than ever.
John replied: [to the last point] That's so true!
There is a very easy to use grout removal tool available at hardware stores and diy lumber suppliers everywhere. And regrouting is a reasonable diy project. Be sure to seal the grout upon completion of installing new!
Can you tell me if anything can be done to increase water prressure besides opening up the pressure control screw and expanding pipe from the street to the house...our house water pressure has declined since we moved in (the past year)...is there something that can become clogged?
John replied: Laura I'm assuming an older home, likely with galvinized iron piping. If this is the case, your best solution is pipe replacement. Other possibilities are updated but undersized copper piping. Unlikely due to the fact that your pressure has gone down since you've been there. You may want to check aerators at faucets spouts and see if they need to be cleaned. You may also want to check with your city water department to verify the size & type of the feed pipe coming in from the city.
Thanks for your help,
Tom Trisko
tomtrisko@msn.com
612-866-8665
Hello John, I purchased a home 2 summers ago (which an inspector looked at), and in the fall of 2006 after I moved in I could smell a mustiness in the bedroom and closet area. Some people thought it was perhaps a dead animal in the wall or ceiling, etc. The smell never went away, and actually got worse -though it was not as noticeable in the warmer months as the windows are open. Last fall as I was raking leaves away from rock around the bedroom side of the house, I found that the wood siding was rotting at the base, -the rocks were covering it up. I called a contractor in to look at it, and they said the rotting of the siding was probably at least 4-5 years old, the insulation is wet. There is a wood floor on top of the cement floor (which is damp) with ceramic tile over it, and in the closet area carpet on top of the tile, the contractor pointed out the floor is below grade at the one wall, and the odor seems to be coming from the floor area and the south side wall. This bedroom area used to be a 'lean-to' evidently and the previous owners made it into a bedroom and walk-in closet area which is at ground level on the one side. There is a step down from the main part of the house to access the bedroom area. What would you suggest, and should a housing inpector have caught this. Thank you, Angela
John replied: Well, I would suggest that Angela you're going to need to remove the bad siding and replace that with something resistant to water penetration and possibly open the whole floor area to inspect the extent of the damage. And if you go that far - it may be wise to frame that bedroom floor UP, so that resistance to the moisture penetration can be improved. Regarding the inspection you received: It is always difficult to say someone should have or would not have been expected to see something at the time of the inspection, as inspectors - all of us - miss things occasionally and it is sometimes dependent on weather conditions at time of inspection.
can you reiterate what you said about sindow jamb replacements? I googled but only came up with full window replacements. thanks, Melinda
John replied: Try A-Craft Windows in Minneapolis at 612 - 722 - 7255. They will come out, explain the options, and have an excellent reputation and always do a very good job.
Also, how much does adding more insulation into an attic generally run? Is this an easy do it yourself job, or would you recommend going with a contractor? Thanks.
John replied: If you are relatively handy it is an easy do it yourself project. Very inexpensive to do yourself and inexpensive to have done. In some configurations a professional may be needed because of multiple cavities or knee walls which must be addressed.
thank you!!!
-erin
is there yet any national certification program for H. I's???
thanks,
Lloyd
When we bought our home in 1988, we had it inspected. It was 100 years old at the time. We were assured that it was sound, structurally, at that time. There was a raised area all the way around the living room where the floor had settled on the wall that had been built around the small, single room of our partial basement. We had a company come out to level the floor, which involved removing the wall in the basement and and gradually evening out the floors, as they supported them from the basement. We were told that there would be more cracks than usual, as a result. That may or may not figure into the current situation. We had that done shortly after we moved in, in the late '80's.
What is happening NOW is that there are places where the plaster has bumped out somewhat. It's puckered, I'd say. That seems to have happened only on the main level. Also, there are places where the walpaper is torn from what I assume is the house settling. I'm not sure when that occurred. I'm wondering if we're in serious trouble with our foundation, or if this is more or less par for the course in a house as old as ours. Would it be helpful to have it re-inspected, getting estimates (just ballpark figures) of what the various repairs would cost...or should we just get a general contracter in? We need to address a # of issues with the house at this point.
Thank you...
Rose
I purchased a home 2 summers ago (which an inspector looked at), and in the fall of 2006 after I moved in I could smell a mustiness in the bedroom and closet area. Some people thought it was perhaps a dead animal in the wall or ceiling, etc. The smell never went away, and actually got worse -though it was not as noticeable in the warmer months as the windows are open. Last fall as I was raking leaves away from rock around the bedroom side of the house, I found that the wood siding was rotting at the base, -the rocks were covering it up. I called a contractor in to look at it, and they said the rotting of the siding was probably at least 4-5 years old, the insulation is wet. There is a wood floor on top of the cement floor (which is damp) with ceramic tile over it, and in the closet area carpet on top of the tile, the contractor pointed out the floor is below grade at the one wall, and the odor seems to be coming from the floor area and the south side wall. This bedroom area used to be a 'lean-to' evidently and the previous owners made it into a bedroom and walk-in closet area which is at ground level on the one side. There is a step down from the main part of the house to access the bedroom area. What would you suggest, and should a housing inpector have caught this. Thank you,
Angela
Regarding the 'old smelling house'...the smell is coming from the walls...hence, 'if walls could talk'.
and lastly...if there are any handymen in the discussion or know someone who is handy...they have a huge untapped market (the good handyman) that will never lack for work, even during uncertain times!!! There are more un-handy homeowners now than ever.
Also, how much does adding more insulation into an attic generally run? Is this an easy do it yourself job, or would you recommend going with a contractor? Thanks.
Thank you!