I'm originally from New Orleans, although I have been living in Los Angeles for almost 20 years. Fortunately, a lot of things stay the same in this beautiful and historic city (even Katrina didn't disturb the French Quarter), so I still know my way around when I get there and have some great suggestions for the visitor. A lot of tour books will tell you about the wonderful, popular tourist spots in New Orleans - St. Louis Cathedral, Jackson Square, Café Du Monde, Bourbon Street, etc., but I like to recommend some of the lesser-known cultural spots in the Crescent City.
Donna's Bar And Grill, 800 North Rampart Street. An old friend of mine that still lives in the French Quarter took me here and it proved to be an incredible discovery. More than an underground center of live brass band music; it's also the site of some fabulous down home cooking. It's definitely kickin'. Maybe we were just lucky, but we had a magical evening there about 10 months after Katrina, listening to a collection of fabulous local musicians and partying with the owner who proclaims that Donna's place is a “joint”, not a club.
Tipitina's, 501 Napoleon Avenue, www.tipitina's.com
There's a new one in the Quarter, but it's worth the Taxi ride to go to the original one on 500 Napoleon. A center for all types of jazz, soul, and funk in an “old New Orleans” riverside neighborhood, what's not to like?
Fabourg Marigny neighborhood, Frenchman Street
On the edge of the Quarter, dovetailed in a residential neighborhood is this fabulous strip of jazz and world music clubs and highbrow and lowbrow restaurants. Café Brasil, 2100 Chartres is a favorite, a bohemian hangout featuring everything from jazz to world beat. Jazz aficionados will love Snug Harbor where we spent a night watching Ellis Marsalis, the granddaddy of that fabulous family of musicians, played with our toddler between sets.
Audubon Zoo.
Sometimes in the tour books, but never stressed enough, Audubon Zoo is more wild animal park than zoo, with very little fencing and mostly natural barriers between the animals and the people. We liked the albino alligator and the fabulous birds we found there. A great thing to do is take the St. Charles streetcar from your French Quarter Hotel through the Garden District's Antebellum neighborhood to the zoo, and then return to the Quarter riding the river on the paddle wheel-driven riverboat.
French Quarter Restaurants
Court Of Two Sisters. I remember this one from when I was a kid, 30 years ago. It's still the site of one of the best, and most affordable, French Quarter courtyard Sunday Jazz brunches. I also like Arnaud's Cigar bar, for cocktails, cigars dipped in brandy, and snacks from the menu of that famous and expensive Arnaud's restaurant, next door. They also operate Remoulade, great Arnaud's food for the budget-minded. Hangover breakfast can be found at QSR, Quarter Scene Restaurant. It's definitely a locals-only hangout and serves incredible buckwheat pancakes.
Have A Great Stay in N.O.
My accommodation recommendation is the easiest. Stay at the Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis Street - period. I have been staying there for years, and it's the embodiment of New Orleans service, a beautiful property and the best location in the Quarter. You'll have all the great attractions at your doorstep, but the location is quiet enough for you to get a good night's sleep, on that one night that you decide you want to recuperate from the fun. This place is particularly good value during the off-season. It can be expensive on the most popular dates, but still well worth it. Check out their Papa Noél Christmas special, where you can get a Petite Suite for under $100. The holidays are a wonderful time to be in New Orleans.
Warren Keating is an artist, living in Los Angeles. His work can be viewed and purchased at KeatingArt.com. For more information, check out WarrenKeating.com.
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For more information on the New Orleans route, check out Find out more about the City of New Orleans route and remember, All Aboard!
Good rule. I use the same one. I try not to go past the 800 blocks in the French Quarter.
Dorine, the French Quarter and most of the tourist spots in N.O. are just like they were before Katrina.
People's Rights Denied
excerpt =
'''Protests against a City Council plan to tear down low-income New Orleans housing turned ugly Thursday, with police using pepper spray and stun guns to clear a crowd angry they weren't allowed into City Hall for the vote.
The City Council voted unanimously to greenlight the demolition of the city's four largest public housing developments, saying they are too damaged by Hurricane Katrina to allow residents back into them.
But many in New Orleans, including former residents of the developments, say they fear the local and federal governments will not guarantee similarly affordable housing be built in their place -- calling the demolition an effort to move poor people out of the city.'''
Pro war right wingers on this forum insist that a Bush invasion of Iraq was warranted in order to preserve democratic rights there. If that is so, then it is time for the government to do the same in New Orleans so that poor people there can vote as well.
Let's see what the radical right has to say about all that.
Next month should be a great time to go. Did you check out the Papa Noel hotel and restaurant specials? The Royal Orleans' five-star accommodations can be had for around $100/night. Google Papa Noel and New Orleans.
Tipitina's (the one on Napoleon) may have the banjolin music on one of the nights.
If you can, catch the free Christmas concerts at St. Louis Cathedral. Last time, we say Philip Manuel, who is awesome!