Season's Eatings: Parsnips

Root vegetables are perhaps the humblest of produce. Relegated to the back shelves of most supermarkets far away from the flashier fruits and more colorful vegetables, root vegetables are traditionally stored in root cellars and basements, where their dirt-caked skins, their earthiness, their sometimes downright ugliness, can’t sully the glamour and sleekness of today’s stainless steel kitchens.  

That doesn’t mean there’s no place for root vegetables in the modern pantry, however. On the contrary, root vegetables, long regarded as peasant food and pig fodder, are among the most misunderstood, and underestimated, produce items at the modern cook’s disposal.

Take the parsnip, for example. Based on looks alone, there’s almost nothing appealing about it. Resembling nothing more than an albino carrot, the parsnip is easy to overlook in the late fall farmers’ markets or in the wintertime produce case. The parsnip’s flavor, however, is actually anything but pale. Possessing all the sweetness of the carrot but adding its own undeniable spicy overtones, the parsnip is an invaluable addition to the seasonal cook’s wintertime arsenal.  

The Latin word for parsnip, pastinaca, was originally used to refer to both parsnips and their more familiar cousins, carrots. When the word was Anglicized, though, the suffix “nip” served to underscore the parsnip’s similarity to the turnip. Like carrots, parsnips have a high concentration of natural sugars, a sweetness that is only enhanced after the first frost of the season, making parsnips perhaps the ideal winter seasonal food.

The parsnip’s distinctive flavor may be, especially for American eaters who have rarely encountered it, an acquired taste. If you’re looking to experiment with parsnips, then, try including parsnips with other root vegetables such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, and turnips in your favorite vegetable or meat stew. Roasting also enhances the parsnip’s natural sweetness, and a mixture of coarsely chopped root vegetables--tossed in olive oil, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, and roasted at 400° until tender—is one of the best, and simplest, ways to experience the parsnip’s flavor.  

Once you’ve developed a fondness for parsnip’s sweetness and versatility, try substituting parsnips for carrots in any side dish recipe (see Glazed Parsnips, below), or simply dressing parsnips in a browned butter sauce with simple herbs. Steamed or boiled parsnips can also be pureed, providing a nutritious base for creamy soups, or tossed in a simple white sauce for a rich, creamy side dish.  

Economical, versatile, easy to store and prepare, parsnips bring a wealth of flavor to the seasonal cook’s wintertime table that elevates this underestimated vegetable far beyond its humble roots.  

Selection: Choose parsnips that are firm to the touch, not rubbery or shriveled. The color can range from almost white to ivory, cream, or even pale yellow. 

Storage: Parsnips thrive (and grow sweeter) at cold temperatures, so keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer.  

Preparation: Roasting, sautéing, steaming, boiling, and baking are all appropriate preparations for the parsnip. Regardless of the method you use, be sure to cut parsnips into uniform pieces to ensure even cooking. Also, you may wish to remove the core, which may become unpleasantly woody in larger parsnips. Peel or scrub the skin well prior to cooking.

Recipe: Glazed Parsnips 

Serves 4-6  

2 pounds parsnips, peeled

2 T. unsalted butter

¼ to ½ c. water

¾ t. kosher salt (or to taste)

½ t. rosemary or thyme

¼ c. sugar 

Cut the parsnips in quarters lengthwise, remove the core if desired, and slice into uniform pieces, approximately ½” thick. Place the sliced parsnips into a large skillet, along with the butter and enough water to reach almost halfway up the sides of the parsnips in the pan. Bring the water to a boil, and then add the remaining ingredients, stirring to combine and dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to medium (the water should maintain a medium boil) and cook, stirring often, until the water has entirely evaporated and the parsnips are tender, about 10 minutes. Shake the pan to coat all the parsnip pieces evenly with the glaze that remains. Serve immediately.