As I was donning my jeans and T-shirt for my day’s activities this morning, I got to thinking how fashions have changed since I was a child. When I was born in the roaring twenties, hems had just started to rise from centuries of wearing them floorlength. Skirts in the '20s were narrow. I don’t think hems rose above the knee at that time, and by the ‘30s they were back down to mid calf, with more volume in the skirts. It took more than 20 years for all women to abandon the styles of earlier days.
Back in those days, women had to wear skirts or be considered a hussy. Even little girls had to wear dresses for all their waking hours after they grew beyond the toddler stage. I grew up in Connecticut, and went to a one-room school for seven years. I walked about a mile to get there. In the winter I wore a snowsuit; a bulky combination of pants and jacket made of a heavy material in a style that ballooned at the ankles. I wore a cotton dress under the jacket tucked into the snowpants. On my feet I wore black canvas galoshes that were fastened with metal buckles. They didn’t do a very good job of keeping my feet dry. After hiking through the snow to reach school, the pants came off leaving me and all the other similarly dressed little girls, to shiver in our flimsy cotton dresses, while our galoshes dried behind the wood burning stove. When I reached high school, and had to walk three miles to get there, my father got permission from the principal for me to wear my tailor-made jodhpurs under my ski pants. I waterproof ski boots with them. That was ever so much more comfortable and sure made more sense.
But ‘sense’ has never been a big factor in women’s fashions. An exception was during the years of World War II. Hems went up to the knee, and narrow skirts came back in style to save material. Almost everything was rationed in those days. But as soon as the war was over, down again went the hems, and big swinging skirts became the rage. I loved those styles! I think my all-time favorite dress was a dark green one
with white polka dots and a wide swinging pleated skirt. It was a great dress to dance in because it flared so nicely. It came with a little jacket, and I wore brown and white pumps with it.
In those days, before the war, and for some years after it, a well-dressed woman never went out without matching accessories. Gloves and hats were always worn, and shoes and purses had to match each other in color. Almost any costume could be dressed up with a scarf fastened with a pretty pin. It seemed to be very important to follow the fashion designer's dictates that usually made headlines when their new styles came out once a year. But there was at least one designer who kept almost standard styles. The one I liked was the Shelton Stroller, a dress that appeared on the scene when nylon did. They were pretty, good for all occasions, and almost indestructible. I usually had at least two of them in my closet.
I’ve never had much money to spend on clothes, and back when I cared about fashions, my husband managed the purse strings. But at least once a year, when we were doing our regular Friday night window shopping at department stores, he would say, "Let’s go in and look around". We would look over the goods, and eventually we would get to the dress department. I’d ask if we could afford a new dress for me, and he would say "OK". I would model a series of dresses brought to me by a saleswoman as he sat and made complimentary remarks. Usually I would get down to deciding between two dresses, and almost always he would make my heart soar when he said, "Why don’t you take both of them." He could be a sweetheart!
I think it was in the late ‘60s that women started wearing pantsuits. Employers still tried to dictate what female employees wore, but after the Hippy revolution, their power faded fast. Pants suits were so much more comfortable than dresses, and they were a lot more modest to wear sitting at a desk. Of course when the teeny-bopper styles came in with hems up to panty lines, all the rules went out the window. Too many older and out-of-shape women thought they had to stay in style, and they looked awfully inappropriate revealing their flaws in such skimpy styles.
In my opinion, that was the end of attractive, stylish clothes, and the fun of adding accessories. Ragged blue jeans became the rage all over the world, and it seems the style will last forever. (I've always thought it was dishonest to wear jeans that you didn't wear out yourself by hard work.) The trend for formal dresses once again is toward sexy clothes that reveal as much skin as one can get away with. There is no more mystery about women’s bodies. I guess designers still offer new styles, and I notice that right now the style for daytime wear is to look as if you dressed in the dark; pulled whatever you could reach out of your closet, and adding it in layers no matter what the color or style. Even current hairstyles look as if each woman cut her own hair by feel without a mirror. That’s OK with me, because I am taking advantage of it. I’m saving money by cutting my own hair, and I cut the back by feel. I don’t have to look at the back, and when I do a particularly bad job, I put on my cowboy hat. Living way out here at a horse camp, I figure I can get away with that. I wear a lot of beige clothes so people won’t notice me as I blend in with the scenery.
Life goes on, and I suppose there are still young people who are thrilled by new styles. But it seems to me, the goal is no longer for females to look pretty. Fashions are just to cover up the body enough to avoid being arrested, and for the shock value of tattoos, and pierced body parts. I suppose teenagers still think they can shock their parents, but after all we’ve been through, it’s not likely. I’m more apt to be shocked if youngsters all suddenly became very thoughtful and polite, dressed modestly, and saved their money.


Comments: 28
I haven't bought a pair or pants in a while because every time I would look the pants would be those low waisted things . At my size and age that is the stupids style of pants possible. Not to mention grossly revealing every time you bend over
It seems to me that womens' "fashion" has been anything but natural for years and years. Bustles and hoop skirts, flattening the bustline during the 20's even to wrapping an Ace bandage type thing around one'self. Now baring the love handles and midriff bulges women should have sense enough to want covered. Even slender girls look heavy in that area where human females store the extra fat needed to feed children and get through the cold winter. Every home should, by law, have a back view mirror. ha ha Or get a friend to take a video with their cell phone from the back "in motion."
My grand mother was agast when women put on trousers that showed the crotch area.
I was made to wear longer sweaters, shirts, or jackets that covered that area when I started wearing jeans. I couldn't wear them to school either or nylons to keep my legs warm. All that saved me was that skirts were ankle length and full. Lots of pleated wool and flannel skirts for me when snow was on the ground.
I can remember walking on the street with my grandmother in the late 50's. She was a professional seamstress and could make clothing really fit, which takes 15 lbs. off one's appearance. Ahead of us was walking a well-endowed-in-the-rear woman. My grandmother whispered to me, "Remember the looks of THAT as you get older. It looks like two cats fighting in a gunny sack."
It saddens me, here in the west to see people wear the same clothing bowling or to a symphony concert. I don't need pearls and white gloves but it's nice to be festive and respect a special occasion by leaving the tennis shoes at home for a change. Even performing groups, except classical, will look like they came straight from rehersal without bothering to change. I think it shows disrespect for those who came to see them and paid $30 or much more sometimes.
Even office or club Christmas parties are same old jeans and tees with advertising on them or suggestive or even nasty sayings on them. It's too blase' and makes it like every other night of the year to me. Personally, I like to have a reason to buy a new dress or pants outfit once in a while.
I do dressy casual when I do a poetry reading, because then, I get to set the style.
"Vintage" clothing stores are all the rage in my town (Cambridge Massachusetts). They have quite a different atmosphere than your typical Salvation Army. I have taken to shopping in them as I discover fashions that my mother might have worn, and for the most part everything is more beautifully made then even the more expensive clothes I might normally buy. I also feel like I am doing the planet a favor by recycling fashion;-)
One great thing about the hippy revolution, as you pointed out, is that people refused to give authority the power to dictate personal choices. I'll forever be thankful to those spunky people who give us all more freedom in our lives to make the choices we want.
It's so nice to hear about your personal journey though women's fashion. Very sweet story about your husband letting you take both dresses.
I remember my mother trying to convince me that nylons kept my legs warm - NO they didn't.
I am SO glad we had public transportation - that much walking to school and I might have been a dropout.
I wanted to add how horrible it was to walk to school in dresses in the winter in elementary school during the 1960s. My mother was nice enough to let me wear stirrup pants that we took off once we got to school. Some girls could not wear any pants and the parts of their legs that were exposed, below the knee-length skirt to where the knee-hi socks came, were beet red. The whole day.
and then of course for school, most of my clothes were made from flour sacks, of different very pretty printed cotton, my grandmother sewed them, and I never saw my mother not all cleaned up and dressed in a nice "house dress" they used to call them, belt and all, just like my grandmother, and stockings with a garter belt, oh me, and of course in high school wearing skirts and tops that needed ironing, and everything else did of course, and the starch sprinkled on everything after the iron came off of the wood stove, I am so smiling here, and then when I finally worked in NYC on Wall street, when I was all of 17, had to have a hat to match every suit, and gloves, yes, nobody went to the city without white gloves on, and I had suits, and silk blouses, and lovely dresses, painted my legs during the war, with some kind of orangy stuff that came in a bottle, and legs were cold again, but silk had gone to war, and nylon was being used for parachutes, I remember standing in lines that went around a city block and never knew what the line was for, sometimes you could get a pair of stockings, and they had seams in the back, and it took forever to get them straight, and everytime you went to the ladies rooom, you had to check to be sure the seams were in line again, and yes, it was wonderful, and I never wore pants until the late 60's when I went back to work, and I have never owned a pair of blue jeans. I do wear pants now, because they are very comfortable and I look good in them too, because I have a flat behind, lol, never had a problem there, no hips to speak of just more of a wasit line than I used to have, but I still go in and out like a girl ought to. My husband used to say, whatever became of skirts. When I was working I used to buy jackets and pleated skirts that went down to the mid calf, back in 89 and also had pants in the same colors, lots of mix and matching going on and I have to tell you I still have a lot of them in my closet. I also when I worked in NYC, had a silver mouton lamb coat that had a swing style, I think I paid $175.00 for it. really expensive for the forties, and they had a store where I had a little charge account and I paid for it by the week, and after a down payment, wore it out of the store. Well in the 60's I cut that darn thing up,yep wore it all that time, and I made mittens for all of my kids out of mouton lamb. Well, Gather is going down tonight again, I have just written my article for tonight,so see you later, Ruth, will be around again tomorrow, I owe you lots of comments, but really just love to read your stuff, same wave length I think, goodnight Ruth,
pumps. Swing coats, scarves tied around heads, large sunglasses. Also, Vegas Brat Pack style seems big. Cocktail dresses, pearls, fashions to sip a dirty martini by........
Does anyone else see this influence??
These days I don't go 'downtown' enough to really know who is wearing what in this part of the world, but I have seen teenagers leaving school in very colorless and uninspired clothes. Out here in the country, blue jeans are OK for almost everything, but some people do wear them in sucn inappropriate places! On a TV travel program the other day, I saw jeans being worn for sightseeing in an art gallery in Vienna! As Sandy F pointed out, dressing up in nice clothes is half the fun of going somewhere special. Casual clothes nowadays go too far into being just plain sloppy and that sends a message of a don't-give-a-damn lazy attitude of the wearer.
I left out of this article some things I could have said, because I like to keep my articles below 800 words if I can. I might have brought up the wonderful new materials that have been invented since I was young. So many would have been great for the styles of the 30s to 50s, because they moved so gracefully.
I never liked those big hair styles with all the ratting. I didn't do it. Also I think the garish makeup of my younger days was bad. I wonder how a guy could bear to kiss lips that would leave a red smear on his own. At the time we thought it was beautiful.
In my highschool years the styles of today would have disgusted us. We would rather die than have a boy see us with straight uneven hair just hanging down the sides of our faces. UG-LY.
Elsie - I love the way you described your working costumes in New York. I can picture you walking down Broadway in that lovely coat. I usually wore rather severe tailored styles and a hat with a good sized brim that could be pulled down in rakish style that showed only one eye - Gloria Swanson style I think. I liked mannish and sort of military styles. I loved our uniforms in the WAVES. They were designed by a famous woman designer. I liked the fact I didn't have to decide each day what to wear, not at all a typical female attitude.
That shoe picture reminds me of a time in the late 60s when my feet were beginning to really suffer from all the years of wearing high heels at work. I bought what was known as a walking shoe. When I wore them to work, one pretty young co-worker said to me, "Oh Ruth, I didn't know you wore orthapedic shoes." I told her I was tired of my feet aching all the time. The heck with her! I was about 20 years older than most of the women I worked with.
Your article is informative and I enjoyed reading it.
dorgordon