Book of the Day ~ Roadfood by Jane and Michael Stern
Welcome Because of All The Sandwiches There members and anyone who should happen on this review.
"Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not."
Ralph Waldo Emerson
I admit it -- food is one of my favorite subjects. Although I find it physically difficult to cook lately (my left arm and hand are nearly always encased in a compression sleeve inhibiting movement), I can still read about food. Since our son is headed off to college a year from now, my husband and I are thinking about short trips to take. "Roadfood The Coast-to-Coast Guide to 500 of the Best Barbecue Joints, Lobster Shacks, Ice Cream Parlors, Highway Diners & Much More" by Jane and Michael Stern looked interesting (on-line), so I ordered it before we took a summer road trip through Washington, Oregon and California. The Sterns write a column for Gourmet Magazine on Roadfood, have a show on NPR, and their website, www.roadfood.com.
Unfortunately, "Roadfood" got here after we left home. Even more unfortunate was that it seems barely helpful for these three states. The Sterns would probably do better to focus on the east side of the U.S., where they know what's what. Oh well. The best roadfood is probably what we find ourselves because half of the pleasure is in the discovery. As an example -- in the New England states, there is a plethora of seafood greats included in "Roadfood." So what happened to the West Coast?
In the Seattle area we have seafood in every price range and restaurant style, yet not one is included in this book. I'm glad that the two Seattle diners in "Roadfood" are in there, but Julia's Cafe (a trendy urban vegetarian hotspot) and The Crumpet Shop (Crumpets, jam and tea)? They just don't scream roadfood to me. Whereas, what happened to Spud's Fish and Chips, Ivar's Acres of Clams, or even Dixie's BBQ, or The Pancake Corral?
At least the Sterns actually travel to and eat at each of the restaurants themselves. Hmmmm. Maybe The Househusband and I need to write our own version for this coast
Structure/Chapters
This 6"x9" softcover book is comprised of eight regional chapters that each contain a variety of reviews of the kind of places for which you just have to stop. The book starts with an introduction and notes on how to use the book.
The chapters include:
New England
Mid-Atlantic
Mid-South
Deep South
Midwest
Great Plains
Southwest
West Coast
Most chapters include restaurant reviews for about 6 states. With 48 states and 500 reviews, that should be about 10-12 per state. Each chapter begins with a small line drawing of the region and larger drawings of each state in the region with Interstate freeways, some smaller highways, stars on the map for each city with reviews, and the restaurant names. After the map page, start the reviews--sorted alphabetically by state and then restaurant.
Sample Chapter
I'll focus on New England, since that seems to be the main thrust of "Roadfood." I wasn't happy with the selections for the West Coast (only 7 in Oregon, 9 in Washington and 26 in California), so maybe those of you from New England -- can weigh in on how comprehensively your region is covered. In "Roadfood," New England includes Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont. Below is a list of the restaurants reviewed. Each review includes the Restaurant name, address, phone, meals served, and a cost indicator.
Connecticut
Abbot's Lobster in the Rough - Noank
Chez Lenard - Ridgefield
Doogie's - Newington
Dr. Mike's - Bethel
Goulash Place - Danbury
JK's - Danbury
Laurel Diner - Southbury
Lenny and Joe's Fish Tale Restaurant - Madison
Lenny's - Branford
Letizia's Pizzeria - Norwalk
Louis Lunch - New Haven
O'Rourke's - Middletown
Pepe's Pizzeria Napaletana - New Haven
Philips Diner - Woodbury
Rawley's Diner - Fairfield
Roseland Apizza - Derby
Shady Glen - Manchester
Super Duper Weenie - Fairfield
Swanky Franks - Norwalk
Sycamore Drive-In - Bethel
Whistle Stop Muffins
Maine
Becky's - Portland
Bob's Clam Hut - Kittery
Chauncey Creek Lobster Pound - Kittery Point
The Clam Shack - Kennebunkport
Cole Farms - Gray
Five Islands Lobster Company - Georgetown Island
Flo's - Cape Neddick
Harraseeket Lobster - Freeport
Maine Diner - Wells
Moody's Diner - Waldoboro
Nunan's Lobster Hut - Cape Porpoise
Red's Eats - Wiscasset
Shain's of Maine - Sanford
Massachusetts
Agawam Diner - Rowley
Baxter's Boathouse - Hyannis
Boulevard Ocean View Restaurant - Gloucester
Durgin Park - Boston
Essex Seafood - Essex
J.T. Farnham's - Essex
Flav's Red Skiff - Rockport
Four Seas - Centerville
Joe's Cafe - Northampton
Ma Glockner's - Bellingham
Marguerite's - Westport
Nick's Nest - Holyoke
Santarpio's - East Boston
Tom's Hot Dogs - Whately
Turtle Alley - Gloucester
Two Sisters - Gloucester
The Village Restaurant - Essex
Wenham Tea House - Wenham
The White Hut - West Springfield
Woodman's of Essex - Essex
New Hampshire
Four Aces Diner - West Lebanon
Bishop's - Littleton
Gilley's PM Lunch - Portsmouth
Polly's Pancake Parlor - Sugar Hill
Rhode Island
Allie's Donuts - North Kingstown
The Commons Lunch - Little Compton
Gray's Ice Cream - Tiverton
Grove Diner - Warwick
Haven Brothers - Providence
Iggy's Doughboys - Warwick
John's New York System - Providence
Olga's Cup and Saucer - Little Compton
Sam's New York System Restaurant - Warwick
Vermont
Blanche and Bill's Pancake House - Bridgewater Corners
Cold Hollow Cider Mill - Waterbury Center
Curtis's Barbecue - Putney
P & H Truck Stop - Wells River
Putney Diner - Putney
Simon Pearce Restaurant - Quechee
Wayside Restaurant - Berlin
What I Like
The reviews are lively, conversational, and entertaining. I enjoy the Sterns' descriptions of the surroundings, specific food items, and the owners or waitstaff. My mouth was watering after just the first few. Somewhere in the middle of reading "Roadfood," I gained several pounds reading this tasty volume.
What I Don't Like
I almost wish that the Sterns had created a version of "Roadfood" that is just New England, East Coast, or East of the Mississippi instead of trying to go from coast to coast. I was so disappointed by the West Coast and Southwest, that it makes the rest of the book suspect. (Though that is probably unfair.) But I bought the book to help us find great places in future travels and I feel like my part of the country is left out. Where is the Salish Lodge's epic proportion weekend breakfast? What about that great fish and chips place in the old boat in Astoria, or Mo's Crab in Newport, or The Pilot Butte Inn in Bend, Oregon with its 32 ounce hamburgers? Why didn't I find Manuel's Burritos or Tommy Burgers in Los Angeles, or McCormick's at Fisherman's Wharf, or Willy's Taqueria on I-5 just north of Redding, California? "Roadfood" just feels like part of the meal is missing.
In addition, I'd like a few more details: Are there vegetarian dishes? Is it appropriate to take the kids? Will the kids think it's appropriate to take them? Even if it's embedded in the narrative, I'd like to see it spelled out
Final Thoughts
"Roadfood" is entertaining, with great descriptions of food and location. I just checked at Borders.com and a newly revised edition will hit stores on April 8, 2008.
Book Details
Paperback: 592 pages
Publisher: Broadway; 1st Broadway edition (May 14, 2002)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0767908090If you liked this book review, you might like to read some of my other book reviews which you can find by clicking on this link.


Comments: 17
I agree that there are a lot of omissions BUT it has been helpful to me on our road trips. I found a great place in DE because of them and also a great spot in Atlanta (the Varsity Drive-In).
I hope that they fixed some of the problems with the book. I agree that it could be more thorough and could include information about kid-friendly restaurants and things like that.