Thanksgiving can daunting food holiday in many ways. It's not for the faint of heart--cooking turkey right so it's not dried out, marshalling the energy to prepare all those obligatory sides, and navigating through those touchy subjects that seem to arise over a long meal. As if that's not enough, there's the challenge of choosing the right wine. Well, I can't give you the secret to keeping Uncle Bob from launching into politics or religion, but hopefully I can make your Thanksgiving wine selection a bit easier.
When matching wine with an every day meal, it's pretty clear that you focus on the entree--what type of meat, what sauce--and pair accordingly. But there's just so much on a Thanksgiving table--savory, sweet, and sometimes a bit of spice. A versatile, food friendly wine is needed. The good news is that there's no right answer--read six wine columns and you'll probably here six different types of wines recommended. 
Dr. Debs of Good Wine Under $20 prefers whites, and offers a good lineup of suggestions including the 2005 Tablas Creek Cote de Tablac Blanc ($18) white Rhone blend she will serve. If you prefer white wine, I'd als suggest a good chardonnay without too much oak and butter such as the 2004 I'M Chardonnay ($18) or Samantha Starr Chardonnay ($14), both from California. A riesling like the 2005 Weingut Johann Haart Piesporter Treppchen Riesling ($14) could work if you want something with a touch of sweetness. And roses and sparkling, especially for starters, get frequent mention in wine columns.
The Wall Street Journal argues for red wine on Thanksgiving, and that's my inclination too. They actually suggest American cabernet sauvignons, the first time I've heard that varietal suggested for turkey day. Proves the point that you can go in a lot of directions with your Thanksgiving wine selections.
In recent years I've opted for pinot noir. This red grape is a classic pairing with poultry, especially roast chicken. It's lively fruitiness complements the various veggies, which can have a touch of sweetness. But pinot also has an earthy quality that helps it stand up to the heartier items on a Thanksgiving table, notably turkey, gravy, mashed potatoes and stuffing. Pinot is hard to make well, so it's not the one to opt for if you're on a tight budget. But wine will be one of my main contributions to our family feast, so a bit of a splurge seems worthwhile. Here are some pinots that would work well as part of any Thanksgiving feast:
2005 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits, Moillard ($18): Though I often try to pick an American wine for Thanksgiving, when I sampled this reasonably priced red Burgundy at a tasting in September, I thought it would be just right for Thanksgiving. At the time of the tasting, it was showing ripe fruit and some depth. I anticipate the 2 months since then will have softened it a bit and make it just right for our turkey day! For those new to wine, red Burgundy is made from the pinot noir grape, and can be a very pricy proposition. This one is a bargain, situated in terms of price and quality between generic Burgundy and the higher end crus bottlings.
2005 Brophy Clark Pinot Noir ($26): This might be the winner in terms of my recent pinot tastings. A vibrant bouquet and light spicy fruitiness, this complex pinot is capable of matching the array of flavors on a Thanksgiving table. Grapes are from Ashley's Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, a Central California Coast appellation.
2005 Schug Pinot Noir ($21): The bouquet has hints of violet, and a delicate plum-flavored taste. There is some heft and a bit of spice to this bottle from the Sonoma Coast, giving it a complexity that can pick up a variety of flavors from your table.
2005 Samantha Starr Pinot Noir ($20): This medium bodied pinot from Monterey County is a nice solid wine. Earthy bouquet, cherries and light spice taste, with a clean finish.
2005 MacMurray Ranch Sonoma Coast 2005 ($20): I first tasted this around last holiday season when it was quite young, and noted it was a bit oaky at first. After breathing, it really opened up nicely, showing a complex taste. The fruit flavor was accompanied by tones of vanilla and a bit of chocolate (an adult version of a twist ice cream cone?). There is definitely some earthy depth to this wine, and it made a nice match for turkey. I'd say it should be just right for drinking now.
It so happens I've tasted more California pinot of late, but Oregon also is an excellent source of the varietal, as conditions there often approximate that of Burgundy. If pinot doesn't strike your fancy (or fit in your budget), let me throw out a few other options. Though some shun it because of its high alcohol levels, I've enjoyed zinfandel on Thanksgivings past. The 2004 Renwood Zinfandel ($11) and the Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee ($12) are two good options in this department. Beaujolais is another varietal that has its advocates as a Thanksgiving wine; I haven't taken to it yet, but here's some reading if you'd like to give it a try for the holiday.
Well, hopefully I've given you enough time to digest these suggestions and find some good wine in advance of your Thanksgiving feast. No matter which bottle you choose, I raise my glass to you and yours in hopes that you enjoy the holiday!
David Crowley, Gather Food Correspondent
David enjoys sharing good food and wine with family and friends. David writes about his wine explorations and discoveries in his column, "Wine Chat", a twice-monthly feature of Gather Essentials: Food. By day, David is the President and Founder of Social Capital Inc.
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Comments: 32
It was crushed and pressed in the early fall (Sept?), fermented and came out in mid-late November of the same year it was harvested. It was a fruity, fun and festive young wine.
But was hoping to have a few bottles for this thanksgiving....
I loved your suggestions
the schug
the samantha
and the mac murray
given the novice taste buds
and the preference of sweeter wine...
which of the three, would you suggest for a meal that will be served with a focus on winter squash dishes
and custard type desserts?
And if you have the time..considering all three...in what order would you serve them?
I'd suggest an ice wine or some other dessert wine for you dessert course.
Here's my 2 cents worth- it seems best to have two different bottles at the table. Just for purposes of comparison, you dig. I'm not suggesting over indulging here, but hey, as long as nobody's driving......
great article, David.
Christopher--good point that there's more in US than California. One of the best sparklers in the US comes from here in Mass (Westport Rivers). I've heard good things about some Long Island wines but haven't had the chance to try.
Fruity, fun, and festive perfectly describe the BN. It's not complex or intriguing, but it's easy wine to serve and many non-wine-drinkers enjoy it. I admit, also, that I've fallen into the tradition of waiting for the release of it every year, which is fun, and it's become somewhat of a harbinger of the coming of Thanksgiving and a reminder that the pleasant fall season is underway. Cheers!
Also, leaving bottles at the table is fun too - people can pour smaller portions and experiment with their meals (which can nicely slow the eating process too, or lengthen the enjoyment).
And lastly, I'd recommend saving a bottle of red to pair with chocolate after the main meal - I don't think this is well known, but what a treat. Any red could work, but I'd go with something more full bodied, richer or drier both work, and small pieces of good chocolate, dark and milk chocolate is up to you. Thanks for giving the ideas.