Season's Eatings: Pumpkin and Winter Squash

A beloved holiday tradition at this time of year is the annual viewing of the classic “Peanuts” television special, It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown. Linus and Snoopy may wait in the “most sincere” pumpkin patch for the mythical Great Pumpkin to appear and shower them with toys, but for me, the “great pumpkin” (or winter squash, for that matter) is the one that arrives in my kitchen at this time of year, ready to be transformed into a multitude of desserts, quick breads, soups, and even entrees. At my house, pumpkin season begins with the first really cool weather of the fall, extends through Halloween (of course), and keeps on going right on through Thanksgiving.  

Almost everyone buys at least one pumpkin at this time of year, plus at least one can of pumpkin puree to make that all-important Thanksgiving dessert. Don’t limit yourself to just jack-o’-lanterns and pies, however; pumpkins and other winter squashes are abundant at this time of year, and their uses are just as diverse and colorful as their varieties. 

Almost all winter squashes (genus cucurbita) are North American in origin, and derive their name from the Native American Massachusett tribe’s word askutasquash, which means “eaten raw.” Although the distinctions between summer and winter squash are somewhat arbitrary, the primary difference is that winter squashes are left to mature and cure on the vine, hardening their skins and further developing their sweet, starchy flesh. 

Not too long ago, only a few kinds of winter squashes were widely available in markets. Now, though, there are numerous varieties abundant at supermarkets and farmers’ markets, where, at least in New England, they are often among the last produce on offer during the waning weeks of the growing and selling season. Here are just a few of the many types you may find: 

Acorn: Acorn-shaped with dark green, orange, or mottled skin, acorn squashes are usually about 4 inches in diameter. Because of its small size and relatively bland flesh, acorn squashes are often halved and baked, and then sweetened with butter and brown sugar. 

Buttercup: These dense, very sweet squashes are ideal for soups. Their shapes are short, squat, and round, and their color may range from dark green to rich reddish-orange. 

Butternut: Another common squash, the butternut has a long, straight neck and a bulbous end that contains the seeds and pulp. Its thin, buff-colored skin is easy to peel, and its relatively quick-cooking flesh is a wonderful addition to gratins and medleys of autumn vegetables. 

Delicata: Small, oblong squashes with stripes of dark green and pale yellow, these squashes are wonderful for roasting and stuffing. Their small size makes them ideal for individuals, either halved as a side dish or whole as an entrée. 

Hubbard: The very large (upwards of 12 pounds) squash has bumpy green or slate-colored skin. Its very sweet flesh makes it excellent for use in pies or other baked dishes. 

Pumpkins: Save the large pumpkins for jack-o’-lanterns, and instead look for so-called sugar pumpkins, smaller varieties with lower water content that are ideal for baking, roasting, and (not surprisingly) making pies. 

Spaghetti Squash:  As the name implies, spaghetti squash has a yellow-colored, stringy flesh that, when baked, can be separated into pasta-like strands. Try serving spaghetti squash with a homemade pasta sauce—the squash’s bland flavor doesn’t compete with other, more robust flavors. 

Although many types of squashes can be readily substituted in recipes calling for pumpkin (or vice versa), start out by choosing recipes that make the most of each variety’s natural strengths. Packed with fiber and beta carotene, pumpkins and winter squashes are easy to integrate into your diet at this time of year and, with a little care, through much of the early winter as well. Perhaps Linus was really onto something after all—the autumnal arrival of the great pumpkin, or winter squash, is truly an event to be anticipated all year long. 

Selection: Winter squashes and pumpkins should be firm and heavy for their size. The heavier they are, the denser their flesh. Never buy squashes with soft or spongy spots—the skin should be uniformly hard and uncut.   

Availability: Although winter squashes can now be found year-round in supermarkets, peak availability is during the late fall and early winter months. 

Storage: Uncut winter squash should keep for several months when stored in a dark, cool, dry place. Cooked, pureed pumpkin can also be frozen and thawed to use in pies, breads, muffins, and other baked goods.

Preparation: See notes above for hints regarding preparation of particular varieties. Take special care when cutting uncooked winter squashes, particularly those with thick skins. In many cases, roasting an uncut squash for 30 minutes prior to cutting is a safer option.  

Recipe: “Baked” Delicata Squash with Brown-Sugar Glaze (serves 4) 

One of the things that scares many home cooks away from winter squashes is their relatively long cooking time (which may be as much as an hour or more when roasted whole or halved). This recipe, adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, eliminates that problem and results in a delicious weeknight side dish that would be perfect with pork chops, chicken, or lamb. 

Ingredients:
2 small delicata squashes, scrubbed and halved lengthwise (seeds removed, skins intact
¼ c. (4 T.) unsalted butter
¼ c. brown sugar, packed
½ t. ground cinnamon 

1. Place the squash halves, cut side up, in a large, shallow microwave- and oven-proof dish. Cover the dish with plastic wrap that’s been pierced several times with a fork or knife.  

2. Cook squash in the microwave on the highest setting for 8 minutes, or until squash is soft but still holds it shape. Carefully remove plastic wrap. 

3. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine butter and brown sugar. Heat on medium, stirring constantly, until the butter is completely melted and the mixture is dark brown and bubbly. Remove from heat; stir in cinnamon. 

4. Preheat broiler. 

5. Divide the sugar mixture evenly among the 4 squash halves, using a pastry brush to spread it up onto the top edges of the halves. Place under broiler for 1-2 minutes, or until brown sugar is bubbly and caramelized. Be sure to check the dish frequently, as the sugar mixture can burn very easily.

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Norah Piehl, Food Correspondent:Norah’s column, “Season’s Eatings,” published twice monthly to Gather Essentials: Food, considers  the importance of eating seasonally and locally. “Season’s Eatings” helps the growing number of farmers’ market shoppers make good choices at the market, highlighting in-season produce and often including a recipe or two. Norah’s column alsos profile local growers and markets, discusses other items (from cheese to chutney) that might be found at your local market, and generally offer sresources for those who wish to continue exploring their local and regional agricultural offerings.

Norah is a professional writer, editor, and book reviewer. In her spare time, Norah enjoys knitting (and blogging about knitting) and playing handbells with Boston’s Back Bay Ringers.

You can find all of Norah’s columns at www.gather.com/seasons eatingsKeep up with Norah’s other postings and Gather activity by joining her Gather network -- just click here: http://quincy74.gather.com and select the orange “Connect” button on the left-hand side of the page. You’ll find Norah and other Food Correspondents, plus celebrity chef content and plenty of other Foodies, at Food.gather.com