Entry 12 - Life's perfect moments

San Marcos de Tarrazú, 22 August 2007, 11:15 pm

This morning we worked on what I consider to be one of the most organized farms so far, the farm of Don Ernesto Chacon.  He was born in San Gerardo (where Los Quetzales National Park is) and is related to some of the people we met there.  He went to school in San Gerardo and lived there for 25 years before coming to San Marcos.

He bought his farm 15 years ago when it was exclusively an animal farm (there are still cattle on the property). 

Kristi from San Mateo asked about this year’s yield in comparison to last year’s.  He said that this year’s crop is lower than last year’s, but that’s to be expected.  He said that when there is a high yield one year, the next year’s productivity decreases - this is the cycle of coffee growing.

Coffee farmers know there are good and bad times, he said.  While this year’s crop is not considered the best of times, because of coffee certification and new buyers on the local market, he told us there is an overall increase in productivity.  For example, Don Ernesto is in the CAFÉ Practices system and has been twice verified.  In fact, he was once photographed by Starbucks for an in-store poster.  When he told us the story, Tami from Oregon squealed—she recognized him from the poster.  Who would have thought that the man she saw in the poster in her local Starbucks store would one day be talking to her.  On his farm.  In Costa Rica.  Very cool …

Another thing that certification, such as CAFÉ Practices, has helped with, is record keeping.  We’ve heard that from several farmers, actually.  Now the farmers—many of whom at first resisted this formalization of their business—can see the benefits, such as being able to analyze data over the course of several years, being able to experiment with different farming practices, reduce chemicals and see the direct results (positive or negative) on yield, etc.

Back at the lab in the afternoon, we got a very special treat.  Roy had secretly been working with Sebastian to buy 11 burlap sacks that Coopetarrazú coffee is bagged in.  He finally succeeded and brought this gift to us.  It was such a sweet gesture, and we all appreciated it so much.

At night, we drove (along a VERY bumpy and steep road) to the top of a mountain, to visit a nature preserve called Reserva Forestal Los Santos.  The preserve has a 100-year lease from the private owners in order to make some significant impact on the environment.  Already, they have marked several trails for people to visit, one of which we hiked at sunset.  It was spectacular.  There is such an emphasis and widespread support for environmental sustainability in Costa Rica, and this is one example.  Sebastian showed us on a map how huge this preserve is, and how it literally (geographically) is connected to other preserves we have visited.

In addition to the beautiful landscape, there is a learning center, where we heard a presentation by the managing director (who, incidentally, is Natalia’s boyfriend’s father) and then shared dinner, prepared and served by a lovely woman and her son.

The name of this area is translated “Cloud Mountain,” and it was easy to see why.  We were literally above the clouds and could see them moving through the mountains.  It was magical.  There was a lookout point we walked on and it was so beautiful and serene.  Of course, we found stuff to joke about and all sat around alternating between awe at our surroundings and hysterical laughter.  I thought to myself that I have to find a way to keep this feeling after I get home and back into my routine.

After our hike at dusk, we were on our way back to the learning center for our presentation, and Natalia stopped and turned around.  I followed her gaze to the area of forest we had just walked through.  Right then a wild horse galloped by, and Natalia pointed out the moon, brightly hanging above the forest.

She said, “Life may not be perfect, but there are perfect moments.  Like this one, right, Michael?”

Right, Natalia.

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