The Culinary Tourist: Off-street Wining and Dining

  I was a little apprehensive when we pulled into the parking lot of the Grape Street Café. After all the buildup from our friends Keith and Beth Lane, the strip plaza façade was a disappointment, especially considering it was my husband’s birthday.

“Do you think it’s a self-serve restaurant?” I whispered to Rich in the back seat. This was Vegas, after all, which is famous for its all-you-can-eat buffets.

Gawking at the diners whose tables had a lovely view of the parking lot, we gingerly pulled open the heavy, wooden door.

From that moment on we were transported to a lively bistro and wine bar, oozing with ambience. You’d swear you were in Sonoma. 

Known for its casual dining and extensive wine list, The Grape Street Café is home to a local crowd, some of whom told us they come here at least once a week. On busy nights like this it’s standing room only, even at the wine bar, where we can find only one seat.

The restaurant doesn’t accept reservations, but there are 90 wines by the glass to choose from while you wait your turn. Rich ordered a glass of La Crema Chardonnay, while the rest of us chose a flight of old world reds, a sampling of 2-ounce servings of four different wines ($13) so we could compare notes. I’m a fan of Spanish tempranillo, and this ruby-red from Mas de Bazan winery hit the spot with its smooth, aromatic tone. Beth and Keith liked the Kaapzicht cab/merlot from South Africa best, and I had to agree.

Lest you think we were taking ourselves too seriously, we soon followed our waitress through the boisterous crowd to our table, engaging her in conversation about her hometown of Buffalo, a blue-collar city not far from where we live. I ordered beefsteak tomato slices and Gorgonzola with diced red onions, drizzled with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and fresh basil ($10) to go with the warm bread that was served the moment we sat down. Everyone else had the chopped salad, a heaping bowl of chopped lettuce, tomato, bacon and blue cheese crumbles laced with homemade champagne vinaigrette ($11).

What followed was a peasant meal for the Gensheimers – four-cheese pizza for Rich ($12) and a simple plate of linguini and red clam sauce for me ($12)– and a gourmet feast for the Lanes. Beth’s plate was laden with six, honey-herbed lamb chops in a cabernet sauce served with caramelized carrots and mashed potatoes with leeks ($25). Keith’s Hawaiian Ahi Tuna, drizzled with cabernet and served with spinach, mashed potatoes and asparagus ($28) was the best he’d ever tasted.

Rich and I deliberately saved room for dessert, but we began to get impatient when our waitress couldn’t find the menu. After about 15 minutes Keith started tapping the table. “It’s Rich’s birthday, and he’s not getting any younger,” he said as she whisked by on the way to the kitchen.

Eventually, those who ordered dessert were rewarded with a humongous serving of profiteroles, three pastry cream puffs filled with vanilla bean ice cream and topped with chocolate ganache, caramel and raspberry ($6) which they decided to share. I opted for the pear d’amour, white-wine poached pears baked in a light French almond cake and topped with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream ($6). Coffee, smooth and rich, was served in ice cream parfait glasses.

Funny how the outdoor tables didn’t look quite so tacky on our way out. The tablecloths were linen and there wasn’t a paper plate in sight. Tiny white lights rimmed the covered patio and the subdued voices conveyed the feel of a romantic hideaway. As we headed to our car, a wedding party drifted out of the banquet room, and the bride blew everyone a kiss.

Salud!

If you go:
The Grape Street Café Wine Bar and Cellar is located at the corner of Buffalo Drive and Lake Mead Boulevard in Summerlin, NV.
Hours: Monday – Thursday, and Sundays, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.
For more information call 702-228-9463
or visit The Grape Street Cafe on the web

Photos by Rich Gensheimer 

Lisa Gensheimer, Travel Correspondent:
The Culinary Tourist appears every other Thursday and by chance in Gather Essentials: Travel. Explore all 50 states with award-winning documentary producer Lisa Gensheimer as she discovers the fun, food and people she meets along the way. Whether you’re visiting the home of a faraway friend, stopping for directions at a roadside market, or on holiday in an exotic location, richly layered experiences await. A published author, Lisa has several new projects in the works, including a cultural cookbook and companion travel DVD. Read more about Lisa's work at Main Street Media and at Forest Press