For those who thought Mitt Romney was Utah’s best kept secret, think again. The real hidden gem is the Desert Pearl Inn, a charming hotel located in Springdale, near the entrance to Zion National Park.
The Desert Pearl Inn was named “Best Hidden Gem in the U.S.” in the 2006 Travelers’ Choice Awards sponsored by TripAdvisor.com. And at $120 a 
night,* it could just as easily have earned the top award for “Best Bargain” and “Best Romantic Getaway.”
My husband and I discovered the Desert Pearl on our way back from the National Association of Broadcasters meeting in Las Vegas one April and we’re planning a return trip as we speak. Though we didn’t participate in the TripAdvisor survey, we couldn’t agree more with the results.
The drive through the desert was just what we needed after three days of meetings, neon, and mind-numbing casinos. After about 150 miles, the parched roadways gave
way to budding willows and cottonwoods along the peaceful Virgin River, where everything was suddenly transformed into a sea of green.
We were famished by the time we arrived at the Desert Pearl Inn, and the slow-fading sun on the layered red rock that wrapped around the hotel was a feast for the eyes. When our friends, who had been here before us, said the Inn was a stone’s throw from Zion Canyon, they weren’t kidding.
Our rooms were bathed in the same colors that drape the massive Navajo sandstone cliff
s across from our private balcony. It was hard to know where to look first—inside or out. The handsome beams, flooring and cabinetry used throughout Desert Pearl Inn are made from old-growth Douglas fir and redwood reclaimed from the historic Lucin Cutoff railroad trestle that once spanned the north end of the Great Salt Lake. How they rescued the timbers is story in itself. But our stomachs were rumbling like the Southern Pacific Railroad that used to cross this old engineering marvel; it was time to rustle up some dinner.
Our cheerful hosts were quick to provide a list of Springdale's many restaurants. We could have survived on the fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and artisan gelato from the Springdale Fruit Company, the organic market we passed on our way into town. Our room came equipped with a good-size fridge, microwave and wet bar with sink.
But this was our first night of vacation, and we had a taste for the garlic burgers at Oscar’s Café. It was not to be. On the way Rich spotted the Zion Pizza and Noodle Company, adjacent to an outdoors shop, and our meal was sealed. It was cold that night, and we didn’t come prepared, so Rich slipped into a hooded sweatshirt while I stood in line to order pizza and beer. I read later that the Pizza and Noodle Company occupies a former Mormon church that dates back to 1930.
Pizza with cheese, sausage, peppers, sun-dried tomato, tossed salad and two beers cost $25, and there were plenty of leftover carbs to fuel the next day’s hike through Zion. Despite the 50-degree weather, we took our dinner outside on the porch where it was toasty warm, thanks to a few strategically placed radiant heaters.
The chill made sinking into the outdoor hot tub back at the Desert Pearl Inn even more enjoyable. Happy as clams, we si
mmered in steam under a starry sky studded with at least two planets.
In the morning, our knapsacks stocked with fruit and trail mix, we headed to Zion National Park, only a few minutes from the Dessert Pearl by shuttle. Our gradual climb through the switchbacks was only mildly difficult yet still exhilarating, especially about an hour into the hike as we followed the narrow ridgeline to the base of Angel’s Landing.
Our return from the summit brought us back down to Earth, just in time for the park’s annual Earth Day Festival hosted by the Zion Canyon Field Institute. I picked up some great information about herbs, plants and low-water landscaping from the park naturalist, and Rich talked with scientists about how to increase the energy efficiency of western-style homes.
A few more days in this incredible place, and we just might decide to move in.
IF YOU GO:
The Desert Pearl Inn
This soothing oasis on 32 acres offering exceptional service and incredible views of Zion National Park
*For current rates and reservations, call 888-828-0898 (USA only).
Zion National Park
Explore 229 square miles of breathtaking scenery by foot, bicycle, shuttle or car.
2007 Earth Day Festival at Zion National Park
Saturday, April 21, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Contact Michael Plyer plyler.zcfi@yahoo.com
Springdale Fruit Company Market and Deli
2491 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, Utah, 3 miles south of Zion National Park along Highway 9
Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; call 435-772-3222 for details
Picnic on the lawn overlooking orchards of organic gala and fuji apples
Lisa Gensheimer, Travel Correspondent:
The Culinary Tourist appears every other Thursday and by chance in Gather Essentials: Travel. Explore all 50 states with award-winning documentary producer Lisa Gensheimer as she discovers the fun, food and people she meets along the way. Whether you're visiting the home of a faraway friend, stopping for directions at a roadside market, or on holiday in an exotic location, richly layered experiences await.
A published author, Lisa has several new projects in the works, including a cultural cookbook and companion travel DVD. Read more about her work at MainStreetMedia.tv and at Forest Press.com.
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Comments: 42
In planning our next trip, I learned that room rates now start at $143, slightly higher than when we visited, but still a bargain in my opinion. You will feel like you're in an open-air spa every minute and the rooms, which are more like efficiency apartments, comfortably sleep several people.
Kim, you chose the perfect word--heavenly. Zion is truly a sacred place. In fact, Zion got its name from the early Mormon settlers, who, along with other visitors, named prominent landmarks Angels Landing, the Great White Throne, and the West Temple. I'm not so sure I like the sounds of "The Altar of Sacrifice," though!
For all of you who plan to visit in the next year, please come back so we can compare notes and photos.
Ron, I will have to dig up my old copy of Desert Solitaire if I still have it. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing your story and pictures - they are gorgeous :)
Lisa, thanks for stopping by. I know you would love this place.
Florence, I found your account online. What a coincidence--we are going to Mexico the week after next. Unfortunately we will be a ways from Banamichi. I'm going to pull out my map and see if it's doable. If not, I'll stash your story away for a future trip. Now I'm off in search of Willa Cather's Death Comes for the Archbishop. Reading your recent post makes me think of her.
I stayed in St. George, though, so I didn't get to visit the places that you were talking about.
thanks for a great travel article.
rayandjudy
On the bright side, hiking Angels Landing was great!
The best food we had in Utah was at the lodge in Bryce Canyon (in the park).
Cecile, I am sure they would let you back in. Just make it another backroads adventure!
Kathryn, your family history is so very interesting. No wonder your fiction is filled with such rich detail and believable characters. I know they spring from your imagination, but your stories are surely informed by your experiences.
Darlene, Zion in the snow must be beautiful, too. We drove up to Bryce on this same trip to find roads closed after an overnight blizzard. The snow appeared as icing on the cake.
Ray, Audrey, Rosa, Gerry and Mariana, thanks for visiting. Yes, Utah has a beauty all its own.
Mindy, Yes, you would definitely have to keep an eye on Search and Destroy here! Maybe when they are a bit older...
Pat, if we get back to Bryce Canyon, we will definitely stop in at the lodge. Thanks for the tip!
Jessica, I have seen some great photos of Canyonlands, including those by Ansel Adams who was a real advocate of our national parks. I hope one day we can make the trip ourselves!
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Congratulations!