Construct An "Industrial Chic" Table

The Idea

While strolling through our local home & garden center with my son. Jake, for the Humpteenth Thousandth time since Hurricane Katrina decided our home was to be remodeled, an idea for a creative project I had seen in the past resurfaced from wherever it had hidden itself in the vast empty regions of my brain. After running the idea by my son, we agreed to tackle the project together. We decided to construct a table in a style I now refer to as "Industrial Chic." This name is appropriate because the material used for the table's frame is un-painted galvanized pipe.

The table can be constructed in many different sizes using any diameter of pipe. Our table was built to be used an end table of sorts, thus the sizes used in this article reflect our preferences and can be adjusted to suit your own design.

The appeal of this project, in addition to its "different look," is its simplicity. All the pipe and fittings used may be purchased in many different lengths and diameters which are pre-threaded. Construction of the frame is competed by simply screwing the fittings and pieces of pipe together.

The Design

While I recalled the basics of the idea, I did not recall the specifics of the design. Jake and I proceed to the aisle where the varying lengths of threaded galvanized pipe and fittings were stored. There, we made our next decision. We decided we would use ½ -inch diameter pipe in our frame. In exchanging ideas we considered many aspects of how the pipe's diameter affected our projects outcome:

• Appearance: The size of the pipe would certainly effect the table's overall appearance. Larger diameter pipe along with thicker wood for the top and shelf would increase the "industrial" design, as well as increase its "rugged look."

• Weight: Of course, larger pipe would increase the overall weight of the piece.

• Price: The overall price would rapidly increase as the diameter of the pipe used for the project increased.

• Level of Difficulty: While not a major consideration unless the diameter and length of the pipe used is increased to unmanageable sizes, this is still a consideration, especially if the project is to be tackled alone.

The diameter we chose was large enough to project the "industrial" look we were after. It would be very easy to assemble and it kept our cost low.

After choosing the diameter, Jake and I sat on the floor in front of pipes and fittings as we worked out which and how many of each piece we would need for our "off-the-cuff" design. We began by constructing one leg of the table while imagining how each cross-support, which would also support the table-top and shelf, would connect to the leg. Arriving at the top of our industrial table leg we then determined how we were going to "finish" the top of each leg considering both safety and appearance. We had already decided to use threaded floor-flanges as the "feet" for each leg. We chose to "finish" the tops of the legs by attaching a 90° elbow and adding an additional length of pipe between the elbows on each side of the table.

Material List

Remember, this list reflects the diameters and lengths used for our project. These can be changed to suit your own goals and tastes.

To prevent a return to the store later on, we ensured we had the correct number and sizes of all pieces by laying out each leg and support on the floor as we retrieved the items from the shelves. It is important to make sure the diameter of each piece is the same. Many times the fittings of different diameters are mixed up in the boxes on the shelves.

Here is our list:

4 Floor-Flanges, threaded for ½-inch pipe

16 Short lengths of ½-inch pipe, threaded on both ends, (2 or 3 inches in length)

16 Tee Fittings, threaded for ½-inch pipe.

4 Lengths of ½-inch pipe, threaded on both ends, 10 inches in length.

4 90° Elbow Fittings, threaded for ½-inch pipe

10 Lengths of ½-inch pipe, threaded on both ends, 24 inches in length

Although there are many possible choice of materials for the top and shelf, we selected the following from the lumber aisle:

2 white wood 1x6 boards, 10 ft. in length. We chose boards with few knots.

In the electrical department we located the items needed to connect the boards to the pipe frame:

16 "C" clamps used for mounting ½-inch pipe to flat surfaces

24 Screws long enough to secure the clamps to the frame without going all the way

through the wood.

For the finish of our wooden top and shelf we choose a light colored stain to be topped with a glossy, protective finish. For this, we retrieved from the paint section:

1 Small can of desired color stain

1 Quart of Polycrylic (Gloss Finish)

1 Small pack of disposable paint brushes

Other items needed for this project:

Scraper or Putty Knife to remove stickers and bar codes from pipe and wood.

Hand or power saw to cut boards to length

Framing square to ensure straight cuts

Rasp to round off board corners and edges

Fine-grit sand paper to finish wood

Lint-free towel to remove dust

Regular screwdriver or tool for opening paint cans

Hammer and small nail to make pilot holes for screws

Phillips screwdriver to tighten screws on clamps

Tape measure and pencil to mark overhang on boards

Straight-edge to draw straight line

Constructing The Frame

The frame is simple to construct because all the pieces are already the correct length. I am sure there are many different ways to put together the pipe framework, some easier than our method, but again we were, in a sense, flying by the seat of our pants.

First, use the scraper or putty knife to removed all the stickers and bar codes from the pieces and remove the fittings from their packages. Just as we did in the store, begin constructing the first leg. From this leg add each of the cross pieces that emanate from the leg. From the lowest cross piece connect a tee, the proper fitting for connecting the next leg. Connect the upper cross piece as that section of the leg is added. .

Begin by securing one of the shortest pieces of pipe into a floor flange (Image 2). Simply tighten by hand. To this short length add the first tee. Once again, hand-tighten this piece. Here it may be necessary to loosen the tee somewhat because the tee must accept two longer pieces of pipe which will run perpendicular from the leg. Aligning the tee is more important than having it tight.

To the top of this tee add the second length of short pipe and on top of that, the tee. This tee should be aligned with the first.

Screw a 10-inch length of pipe into the top of the second tee. From the end of this length of pipe, the process should be reversed by adding a tee, a short pipe, another tee, and another short length of pipe. Here, instead of the floor flange as on the bottom, screw on a 90º elbow. (Image 3)Align the elbow with the tees in which the side pieces will attach. The first leg of the frame is now complete. 

From the lowest tee on the leg, attach a 24-inch piece of pipe. (Image 4) Just as it attaches to the tee in the first leg, add a tee to the end of this pipe, aligning it with that on the other end. To this tee, in the downward-facing opening add a short piece of pipe that has already been mounted into a floor flange to the top of this tee add a short piece of pipe with the second tee mounted on the far end. The second leg should be taking shape as the mirror of the first. Proceed constructing the second leg adding the necessary cross-pieces as you go, and so on.

At one or more points in the process, it may be necessary to install a cross piece into the fittings of the legs on either end. Because the pipe needs to turn the opposite direction to be mounted on each end, it will be necessary to thread one end of the cross piece all the way into the fitting on one end until it is snug. Holding the opposing leg, align the cross piece into the fitting on the other end and mount the screw into this fitting by "loosening" it from the first. It is necessary to "guesstimate" when both ends are threaded approximately the same of each end. Do not worry that all pipes and joints are not tight.

When the frame is completed it will stand on its own.(Image 5)  However, it will not hold "square" as the pipes and fittings are not tight. This is normal. The frame will be squared and held in place when the top and shelf are mounted onto the frame.

The Top & Shelf

Measure the distance from the outside of the cross piece to which the top will be mounted to the outside of the pipe which will be the mounting brace for the other side. Before taking this measurement, square the frame by sight.

We wanted at least one inch of overhang on both sides of our pipes. Therefore we added two inches to our measurement and simply rounded our measurement to the next whole number of 29 inches.

Use a framing square to ensure the end of the first board to be used is straight. If it is not, use the square and a pencil to mark a straight line across the board. Cut along the mark to create a square end. From this square end measure and mark the needed length (29 inches.) On this mark use the framing square to mark a line across the board. Cut the board along this mark. Lay this first board across the frame to double check its length, overhang, and proper cut.

After the first board is cut to proper length, make a small identifying mark on it to designate it as the template. Rather than measure each of the other seven pieces place the template on top of each board to be cut. Make sure the end and the sides of the template and board are perfectly aligned. Holding the template in place with one hand, mark the board beneath, following the straight end of the template. Cutting along this line ensures the board will be the same length as the template piece. Cut the remaining six pieces the same way, using the template on each and not simply one of the other previously cut pieces. This helps ensure uniformity in length of all the pieces.

With all the pieces cut, round off all the edges and corners of the boards with a quick pass of a rasp. As with the pipe, it is necessary to remove any stickers, bar codes, and glue that may be on the boards. With the type of wood we used, it was a simple matter to smooth off the cut ends of the boards, the rasped edges and the remaining surfaces with fine-grit sand paper. Wipe away the dust using a lint-free cloth.

To stain the boards follow the directions on the can to achieve the desired depth of color. Once the stain has dried, lightly sand all the surfaces to remove any grain the liquid has raised. Apply the finish after mounting the boards to the frame.

Clamping the Wood To The Pipe Frame

Mounting the stained boards to the pipe frame prior to applying the sealer ensures that the glossy finish is not marred. It is also a short cut as the glossy finish coats are applied only to the sides and edges of the wood that could be seen. This short-cut is purely personal preference.

Choose the four boards that will be used as the top surface. Look down the edge of each piece to determine if there is a curve or "bow" in the board. Be sure that any bows are facing up once mounted to the frame. This means, for the next step, place the bottom or the side that will not be seen, facing up for the next task.

Place the boards side-by-side on a flat surface. Flush the ends of the boards, making them even on both ends. Being careful not to move the boards, measure and place a small mark on the two outside boards. Measure the amount designated for the overhang of the wood on one side of the pipe frame. Again, being careful to keep the ends aligned, use the straight edge of a level (you can use your framing square if it long enough to reach both sides) to mark a straight line across all the boards between the two marked side boards. (Image 6)  This mark serves several purposes; one is to identify where to place the clamps that will hold the boards to the pipe frame. The mark across each board also marks the proper amount of overhang to be maintained and, at the same time, helps ensure the pipe frame remains square as the boards are clamped into place..

On each board, place a clamp (Image 7) along the line where the outside, or top edge, of the "C" shape touches the line. While holding each clamp in this position use a small nail and hammer to make a "pilot hole" for each screws at the midpoint of the hole on each side of the clamp. Use wood screws that are not long enough to penetrate the full thickness of wood. Loosely mount each clamp by starting a screw in each clamp's outer-facing hole. Tighten each enough to grab solidly into the wood, but an amount that allows the clamp to move freely around the single screw.

Place the pipe frame up-side down on the floor to complete the job. Begin by butting the edge of the first board against the flared edge of the tee fittings that hold the pipe supporting the top. Because the frame is upside down, the board will be beneath the pipe to which it will be clamped and must be held in place while turning the partially mounted clamp and snapping it in place over the pipe. Then place the second screw in the clamp and tighten both screws to hold the board in place. While placing and mounting the clamp be sure the marked line runs straight along and almost touching the pipe's edge.

Next, place the other outside board in the same manner. By butting each of the outside boards to the flanges on the tees, the two remaining middle boards can be spaced to leave an even gaps between them as they are mounted in the same fashion. (Image 8)

Mount the opposite ends by pushing the clamps onto the pipe and placing the screws on both sides of each of the boards. When mounting each, be sure the lines on the other side remain straight along the pipe, thereby ensuring the table will be square when completed. Also, be sure to maintain the same space between the middle boards as on the first end. With all four boards clamped and screws tightened, the table will become much more rigid and will hold its square shape.

Repeat these steps to mount the shelf boards to the pipe frame.

The Finishing Touches

We wanted our wood to have a clear, shiny finish, as well as a finish that what hold up well to a bit of use. We used a water-based acrylic finish that dried to a glossy shine. You can use the same or one more suited to your taste.

We applied three coats of acrylic finish, letting each coat fully dry, according to the acrylics directions, between coats. After the first and second applications had dried, we sanded the surfaces very lightly to smooth out the finish, wiping away the dust with the lint-free cloth. After the third coat dried (although its shine makes it appear that it is still wet) our project was complete..