Online road diaries from September 2000 - November 2001. One woman, two Chihuahuas and a 1977 Dodge Apache Class C Motorhome.
Excerpted from http://www.rvgirl.com/
Finally on the road by noon, winding my way up US 1, at times a two lane highway, at other times a crooked line through a picturesque town. Finally seeing prettier views of Maine - trees, cliffs, rocks, lakes, rivers, bays, ocean. Listening to music I could sing along to like Rosie Vela, Til Tuesday and Tori Amos.
Pulled off US 1 at East Orland to fix a quick lunch for me and the Berts (my nickname for the two chihuahuas, my constant companions). Arrived in Deer Isle after crossing the high arch of the Eggemoggin Bridge, snaking the gentle curves of a narrow road across water lined with large, white stones, and making a right into and through town in a blink of an eye.
Aunt Bunzy's house was a moment out of downtown Deer Isle, set back from the road with a long gravel drive. The house itself is gray with a reddish converted barn attached. She leaves the door unlocked and told me to go in and make myself at home as she was at a wedding that afternoon.
I layed some towels out on her sofas and the Berts, and they sat attentively, watching, listening. The living room where we sat had a big picture window overlooking the front yard, and it was filled with things: cermaic pots, jars, tea kettles, paintings, ceramic vases, figurines, plants, glass, stone, books, buckets, bronze statuettes, embroidered pillows, patterend rugs, newspapers, magazines in piles, wood, and a wood burning stove.
Bunzy came by the house and picked me up, taking me to the Haystack Academy, a crafts school where the wedding was taking place. She introduced me around as her "great-neice," and then we had a glass of champagne and danced.
The Start of Coincidences
One of the women I met, when I told her what I was doing (cross country drive with the two Chihuahuas), immediately said "Ah, 'Travels With Charley.'" Well, she was not the first person to mention 'Travels With Charley' which I had gathered was a book about a cross country drive.
"Not just any cross country drive," she explained, "It was written by John Steinbeck about his cross country drive with his dog." Then she told me something that was quite interesting. "He started his trip right here, in Deer Isle. In fact, the neice of the woman whose house he stayed out is..." and she proceeded to tell Bunzy the woman's name, and Bunzy knew her. It was decided that before I leave, I would have to see the house and here the whole story.
Back at the house, after a speedy, nighttime drive through the pitch black roads of Deer Isle, the Berts and I settled into the converted barn on a futon sofabed. It had been a long day.
9/24/00 - Spending Time in Deer Isle, Maine
Woke up early on Sunday, and according to the colorful clock on the wall, it was nearing 8:00am. Gathered the Berts and went into the RV to make them breakfast. Then found out it was actually 7:00am. Went back into the barn, bathed, and dressed in what I thought was quite a Maine outfit of layers: Creme-colored silk long johns, tan flowing skirt with black and aqua flowers, black turtleneck, tan ribbed cardigan and a black cable knit pullover sweater.
Had an amazing buffet brunch at the Goose Cove Lodge and took some photos. Later, Bunzy drove me through Stonington, a picture-postcard image of a Maine fishing town with boats in the water between rocks and trees and piles of pastel-colored lobster traps along the road.
Stopped by to visit her friend Jim, from Rhode Island, who had a meticulous 19th centure house filled with antiques of the time. Then on to Julie''s cozy, rough-hewn home that hugged the water, offering spectacular views. We missed what was later called a monumental sunset as we headed back to Bunzy's before dark.
Julie joined us later for dinner - grilled lamb chops, corn on the cob, sauteed squash and peppers, a warm Merlot, and talk about the Internet with two self-proclaimed Luddites. Vanilla ice cream with strawberry peach sauce was dessert, and I went to bed at 9:30pm, after telling them that their feelings/fears about the Internet were the same ones people had when the telephone was introduced into people's homes. I had done my part defending the Internet, and it was time to go to sleep.
Brought the RV to Dave and Dave's, a local auto mechanic who agreed to take a look at the exhaust leak. Then Bunzy brought me to the next town over, Blue Hill, to the Blue Hill Bookstore where she had called ahead and found that they had a paperback copy of "Travels With Charley" for ten dollars and change. They also had the book on tape, so I bought it. A friend in New York City had suggested I pick up some books on tape for the drive, and it seemed like the perfect book to listen to on the road.
While in Blue Hill, we sat in the park for a while, the Berts basking in the sun, then we had lunch at Fishnet, a small shack of a restaurant with about six and a half tables (we first sat at the half table but moved into a full table when someone left). We both had crab rolls and I had fries and a vanilla shake. The crab meat was so good.
Later that day, we went to meet Brenda Gilchrist and see the house where Steinbeck visited. She took us around the back and told us the story.
Steinbeck in Deer Isle - More Coincidences
Steinbeck was planning to make a cross country drive to "see America" and told his literary agent, Elizabeth Otis. She insisted that he must start his travels in Deer Isle, Maine. He had never heard of it and had no interest, however, he felt obligated to her for sticking by him through the years so he finally agreed.
Then Elizabeth waited until the last possible moment to tell her friend in Deer Isle, Eleanor Brace, that John Steinbeck was on the way to her house. She knew that Eleanor was very shy and would find a way to get out of it if she had too much time to plan.
Eleanor did invite a friend over, a woman named Margaret, who was there for moral support and to keep the conversation going. Steinbeck showed up with his dog Charley (a standard poodle) and their presence infuriated Eleanor's gray cat George (a female).
The trio had a huge lobster dinner with lobsters from Stonington, and Brenda mentioned that Margaret was a bit put out that she was not mentioned in the book - Steinbeck describes Eleanor ordering three lobsters but didn't explain who ate the third. Steinbeck chose not to stay in the house and instead, stayed with Charley in the RV which was parked in front of the garage.
"I'm not sure what time of year he traveled or when he was here." Brenda said, and since I had the book in my hand I flipped through it, looking for a date reference. On the back jacket, it said he started his trip in September 1960. We all laughed in amazement. "You are starting your trip the same month forty years later!" Brenda exclaimed.
So I spent the rest of the evening marvelling at the coincidences, wondering what they meant, and unsure if I should read the book while I traveled or waited until my return. Suddenly, I was worried that it might be more prophetic and wasn't sure if his trip was positive. Then I worried that I might end up copying him subconciously in some way, either in my road diary or on the road. How would it affect my trip and how I perceived my trip?
The Coincidences: Travel across America, with dog(s), in an old RV, starting in Deer Isle, Maine (of all places - very out of the way if going West), and in September 1960/2000.
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