Pork Ribs

Of Ribs and Rubs

Ribs. Rich, unctuous pork striated with fat. Smoke and spices vying for dominance and ultimately doomed to a supporting role in the production of this most Southern of feasts. And don't let the Texans fool you, beef ribs are good but simply can't compare to the gustatory magic of slow-roasted pork.

I just got the following e-mail from fellow Gatherite, Mark Venezia:

"My 6 year old son asked me to buy him some ribs when we were at the butcher shop this weekend. So now I have 5 lbs of country style ribs and I have no clue how to cook them. Any suggestions?"

The correct response is, "Yes. Fire up your smoker." But given that Mark asked at all it's my guess he doesn't have a smoker. I don't even know if he has a charcoal grill. And in the meantime he's got a six-year-old wanting ribs. So here's a compromise until he can get properly equipped.

The first thing to keep in mind is that ribs require long, slow cooking. They're fatty and riddled with connective tissue and any attempt to cook any sort of ribs in a hurry, whether they're pork, beef, or goat, will produce a tough, dry, flavorless result. So plan on at least three hours cooking time.

Step 1 is to mix up a dry rub. Rubs are similar to marinades in that they're a means of infusing flavor, but unlike marinades they're, well, dry. The ribs should cure for eight to 24 hours before cooking. I know, that's gonna be hard to explain to a six-year-old, but Mark can get the kid involved in making these and so begin that essential men-and-meat bonding process that's so important to long-term male mental health.

Dry Rub

1/4       c            paprika

2          tbsp            kosher salt

2          tbsp            onion powder

1          tbsp            garlic powder

1          tsp            black pepper

1          tsp            dried thyme

1          tsp            rubbed (dried) sage

1          tsp            dried, ground lemon peel

1/2       tsp            cayenne pepper (optional)

Mark, I would measure out all these ingredients and then let the kid mix them together in a large bowl using a fork or small whisk. I put the rub in an old mayonnaise jar with holes poked in the top to make a shaker.

Lay out the ribs on a large sheet of plastic wrap and season generously with the rub on all sides, rubbing the spice mixture into the meat. (Again, you can get the kid to help with this.) Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Heat the oven to 325F.

Remove ribs from plastic and place in the center of a large sheet of aluminum foil. Loosely seal foil over the ribs, place on a baking sheet, and cook in the center of the oven for 2 1/2 hours.

Remove from oven, open foil, brush ribs with barbeque sauce (see below), and return to oven, uncovered, for another 30 minutes. You may want to brush the ribs with sauce again after 15 minutes. Remove from oven, loosely fold foil back over ribs, and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Serve with sauce.

Barbeque Sauce
1            btl          ketchup, 14 oz
1/3         c            molasses
1/4         c            cider vinegar
1/2         tsp          ground chipotle
1/2         tsp          ground black pepper
1/2         tsp          ground white pepper
1/4         tsp          ground cardamom
1            tsp          onion flakes
2            cloves     garlic -- finely minced
1/2         tsp          salt
1/4         tsp          ground celery seed

Mix all ingredients in a small sauce pan over low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings.

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